File: 1618939381421.gif (2.05 MB, 500x278, tumblr_p205498WeM1vkg43bo1_500…)
No. 180520
File: 1618948728115.jpg (1.19 MB, 1920x1080, PhotoCollage_1618949222416.jpg)
I do embroidery but I'm hoping to learn how to sew. These are two super old pieces I did during early quarantine, I've been too busy to do any at the moment and it's sad 'cause it's one of my favourites hobbies
No. 180521
File: 1618948919455.jpeg (1.36 MB, 3024x3024, IMG_7135.jpeg)
>>180491Omg this thread is PERFECT. I have always wanted to express my love for embroidery.
>>180520 Same anon!
For this Mothers Day I bought a DIY embroidery compact mirror kit on Etsy to make for my mum. I will post a pic!
No. 180522
File: 1618949427385.jpeg (167.35 KB, 900x1125, 595EAF13-54EA-4108-8780-D82B6D…)
I was just thinking about a thread like this! Bless you anon ily. I’ve only hand sewn and embroidered before but I’ve been looking at embroidery+sewing machines recently. Experienced sewers regarding wearable clothing, how difficult would it be to stitch up something like this? The original material is made of 89% polyester and 11% spandex. This photo best shows the pattern used imo and it looks simple enough. Am I unknowingly stepping into a world of headache with this?
No. 180545
>>180521This is such a cute idea!
Does anyone know any good resources for making clothes smaller? I lost a bit of weight and had the habit of buying clothes that were too large so I'd like to take some things in but for some reason I'm finding it very hard to find good ways of going about resizing things like pants or dresses (shirts are easy enough).
No. 180623
File: 1619015900882.jpg (294.55 KB, 1000x1250, 0993482901934776528.jpg)
>>180491read my mind anon!! I so badly want to make my own funky outfits and upcycle old clothes.
>Where can I buy a durable, but affordable100 bucks would be awesome but ik sewing machine online? >What can I do for now to hone my sewing skills for clothesmaking while I put money aside for a machine?>What's the best machine that can deal with jeans? No. 180624
File: 1619016876926.jpeg (450.64 KB, 640x704, 63B3B023-DCBA-4C38-923A-F658CC…)
I just got these heat erasable pens so I can draw my own embroidery designs. I tested them on a piece of fabric, doodled all over it, then blew a hairdryer over it for a few seconds and all the pen marks totally vanished! This is great for embroiders who need a few attempts to get their drawings right.
No. 180626
File: 1619018145688.jpeg (1.13 MB, 2245x3178, 1_RJ7MtQUIFqxq7TtmcXKzDw.jpeg)
Aw fuck yeah, thank you for this thread anon!
I also do a lot of embroidery (love making flowers) and crochet (can only do flat surfaces as of yet but progressing fast!) and some knitting (started learning recently). I know the basics of sewing and operating a machine (practiced a bit on a friend's), so this year i'd love to get into making my own clothes with a sewing machine! Anyone have any good resources that teach basic/advanced pattern-making? Seems like a very valuable skill to have, even when you can copy and combine pre-existing patterns and so many can be found for free online.
No. 180691
>>180623>What can I do for now to hone my sewing skills for clothesmaking while I put money aside for a machine?I highly recommend doing some small projects, like DIY scrunchies, masks, or tote bags, to practice the skills you use when sewing clothing! Sewing the stitches is probably the easiest part of sewing, honestly: following patterns, pinning pieces, clipping curves, gathering (which is easier by hand imo), hemming, etc etc are all important steps in any project.
>What's the best machine that can deal with jeans?It's actually not the machine itself, but the type of needle that determines this. The needle in the machine will dull over time and needs to be replaced, but there are different types of needles (such as universal, stretch, quilting, and leather), including denim needles suitable for denim fabric.
No. 180793
File: 1619098120247.jpg (107.93 KB, 750x1125, 43866376670_6e6347fc45_k.jpg)
Hey anons, I'm interested in replicating the cape in picrel for a formal look. The patternmaker recommends heavyweight wovens like wool, but I live in a really warm place and don't want to have to wear that, so I'd like to use a heavy or midweight linen instead. Alternatively, I could just use a really flowy, light fabric and go for a completely different effect. What do you guys think? What would look nicer?
No. 180860
File: 1619118898573.jpg (544.96 KB, 2050x2560, 91vcEeNensL.jpg)
>>180626So I wanted to know about the patternmaking too and I've googled around a bit and apparantly this book is really good. Here's a detailed rundown of what's in it and it sounds pretty good:
https://www.textileebook.com/2019/04/patternmaking-for-fashion-design.htmlI'm still looking for a "free" copy
No. 180861
>>180860Samefag, found a scanned copy of the book:
https://vk.com/doc278403527_419184950?hash=0d5338faec1daaebe2Doesn't use metric measurements though, which is unfortunate (for me)
No. 180863
File: 1619120212395.jpg (18.54 KB, 366x499, 41bxg1uDToL._SX364_BO1,204,203…)
>>180861Samefag, found a good book for patterndrafting in metric measurements. I found an excellent pdf on irc but idk how to share that here.
No. 180999
File: 1619164534307.png (1.18 MB, 654x1054, Screenshot 2021-04-23 at 1.24.…)
>>180860>>180861>>180863anon THANK YOU! this is awesome! i found the fifth edition of the Winifred Aldrich book p. easily, both the books look really good.
i'll think of you every time i make something and it turns out well!
>>180793i second the linen suggestion too, structure is going to give it a clean classy look. however depending on what you want to pair it with, do you think a semi/fully sheer flowy fabric could look good? like on top of a slinky silk dress or something?
(i thought it looked good in my head, so i did some googling, and now i really want picrel in my life lol)
No. 181038
File: 1619193756430.png (102.39 KB, 361x287, tails.png)
>>180999Cape anon here, thanks for the advice! You're right, that's a gorgeous picrel kek. After mulling it over I agree with both you and the previous anon that linen will work for my intended effect (structured and dramatic), but I think I might give the light, flowy version a try sometime!
On another note, is OP's thread pic bothering the shit out of anyone else? The fact that she's not really sewing anything, plus the thread just… popping loose
No. 184637
>>181458Mood Fabrics has a lot of free patterns you can download and print out!
https://www.moodfabrics.com/blog/category/free-sewing-patterns/ You just have to put in your email to get them.
No. 184667
File: 1620668875238.jpg (115.1 KB, 618x500, Corset-AMBER-Front-Back-Diagra…)
I keep putting this project off because I'm so intimidated by it, but I really want to make a proper corset bodysuit. It's for costume purposes, obviously. You can really tell the difference between a well-constructed bodysuit with good boning and a shitty stretch leotard in my opinion. I've made the Yaya Han pattern before with a zipper back and plastic boning, and it just wasn't that flattering on me even after altering it. If anyone has any advice or words of encouragement, I could use it!
No. 185255
>>184738Sorry for the late reply! Here are the one's I've saved and plan on making some day.
- Kimono pattern (looks like it'd make a really nice long cardigan)
https://elbetextiles.com.au/blogs/news/zero-waste-pattern-making- Collection of dress patterns (and one shirt)
https://www.refinity.eu/uploads/2/1/9/8/21986448/flyers_zerowaste_fr-en-1.pdf- Kurta
https://seweverythingblog.com/2013/11/15/kurta-construction-cutting-out/- Dress with gathers on the shoulders
https://www.offsetwarehouse.com/products/zero-waste-dress- Another dress
https://www.threadsmagazine.com/2020/04/18/how-to-sew-a-no-waste-dress- Wide leg pants (this one I'm most excited to try out. The tutorial is in german though so lol)
https://seemannsgarn-handmade.de/2019/05/zero-waste-schnittmuster-hose/- This link has links to various zero waste patterns:
http://www.studiofaro.com/well-suited/garment-pleating-homage-to-issey-miyakeThe above are free. I'm also the type of person who will look at someone's pattern draft and try figure out the measurements and draft a copy up myself (never learned how to properly pattern or use patterns lol) so some links might not be helpful to you if you're looking for patterns to print out and use.
This dress is also SUPER popular and takes up a lot of results when you search for zero pattern dress.
https://www.birgittahelmersson.com/collections/pdf-sewing-patterns/products/zero-waste-pdf-pattern-gather-dressI've been thinking of just purchasing it since it's just a cheap pattern that I'll most likely use over and over again but I also saw a girl do a sew along tutorial so I kind of want to try using her video to figure out the pattern for myself and make it from there lol (vid related)
No. 185855
File: 1621110369383.jpeg (843.2 KB, 2576x1932, CEB8AE75-E30A-46C8-B783-F2C18D…)
sewed this swimming costume almost entirely by hand. one of my fav creations. cant wait for travel rules to be relaxed so i can wear it in a Portuguese plunge pool
No. 185856
File: 1621110452163.jpeg (381.67 KB, 1242x1552, D19029B5-9FAA-43A3-AD6A-434EA6…)
sewed this Miffy dress by hand
No. 185920
>>185891yes actually it was a nightmare. i used my sisters seeing machine for the arms and sewing machines DO NOT like this kind of fabric so it constantly skipped large parts of ghe fabric and i had to touch it up by hand. i wish i hadnt gotten so impatient
if i could redo this project i would do it entirely on a machine and find a mode on the machine that is lycra-friendly
>>185885thank u anon!
>>185912thank you! its not raw or unhemmed it just curled up towards the end because i used blanket stitch.
No. 186690
File: 1621474622809.jpg (195.84 KB, 955x972, IMG_20210519_223719.jpg)
Does anyone have a pattern or instructional video that is similar to picrel? TIA!
No. 186694
>>186693Nta
and I agree that it's kinda ugly and outdated but damn not everyone cares about what's on trend
No. 186697
>>186693>>186694>>186695Yeah, I don't really care about trends, using that as an argument just sounds silly, I just generally wear what I like and what I think flatters me the most.
But this is actually for a costume, so I was thinking of not doing the pouch and maybe use a thicker fabric as well
No. 186699
File: 1621479271716.png (422.73 KB, 387x622, 4739284832-49832654.png)
>>186690This is fairly close, just extend the back and use a light fabric. The pattern comes with several front variations so you could do the plainer style instead of this split(?) type.
https://www.etsy.com/listing/648828666/sewing-pattern-womens-tunic-top-pattern No. 186710
File: 1621484037688.jpg (78.97 KB, 515x515, CMS-K-LMSILV.jpg)
>>184667Good luck anon! I've made three corsets before. They were all Laughing Moon Silverados, but I altered the second corset pattern to be underbust and the third was for someone else.
Maybe it wasn't flattering because the materials weren't sturdy enough to hold their shape? You need to season a corset (break it in like a shoe) before it really develops that nice shape. Also zippers kinda suck for corsets if there's no back lacing because you can't adjust the sizing to compress you at all without it being hard/impossible to put on. My third corset had a front zipper closure and it worked just as well as a busk but it's hard to find correct sizing for zippers :(
"The Basics of Corset Building" by Linda Sparks is really good to read, it helped me a lot. Linda is also the woman behind www.farthingalescorsetmakingsupplies.com/
I bought my materials from there. I altered the pattern to be more nipped at the waist and less rounded like pic related
No. 191175
>>191171Use a ton of pins, I find swim material to be very slippery due to its stretch, Sarah Tyau has a tutorial for simple resizing and
Remy To has one for a bikini style although it is not in english and has no subtitles its easy enough to follow.
No. 191678
File: 1623484491935.png (1.08 MB, 892x648, mossstitch.png)
any nonas here into crocheting? i've been learning it recently as a relaxing hobby as well as to get some hand exercise (recovering from an rsi) and i'm loving it so so much. i've been working on a simple wrap in moss stitch (picrel) and it's so relaxing to get in a couple lines before bed each night!
(using a variegated white, baby blue and sage thread for it. i'm looking forward to wearing it so much)
No. 193446
>>193435I would say if you can get one cheap and have used one before and will actually use it then yeah definitely
Because you’ll be getting it second hand you wouldn’t have to feel too bad about not using it too often
No. 194465
File: 1624764944267.jpg (260.22 KB, 750x1150, Serger-Tension-Infographic.jpg)
>>193435I got mine used for $300 Canadian in 2016 and it's very reliable (Janome XG-43D). Usually they have a diagram on the inside on how to thread it, you need tweezers to make it easier. They all thread up mostly the same. Basic tension for the dials on most fabrics is 4/4/4/4. Buy serger needles (I use Janome ballpoint needles size 11, 15x1sp but you should check what your machine will need). Also, just like a sewing machine you need to clean out the fluff inside with a brush. It also might need oiling depending on the model. Some are made so that you don't have to.
Don't forget you can always contact the manufacturer or the shop you got it from to help you. I test the tension on scraps to make sure it's normal using pic related. Save it for your reference and good luck
nonnie!
No. 194752
File: 1624926621513.jpg (25.57 KB, 614x768, 82fe3308ce9e82591fe4eb99b09240…)
How badly will I fuck up if I just start draping directly onto a mannequin? Can you make a whole dress this way? I can follow a pattern but I'm not comfortable making adjustments to the design of them, and I feel like I might get closer to what I want if I just went for it and made a toile. Picrel, I want an Ossie Clark style dress
No. 194945
>>194752Why not purchase a book on draping for beginners and do the exercises from it before taking on an intermediate project like this? I learned flat patternmaking first and may not be much help in the way of starting with drape, but patternmaking isn't really a skill you can easily wing lol
Also, when you drape you may have to do some flat patternmaking as well. Draping sleeves requires an arm attachment for your dressform, and is still wildly easier with flat pm. However, don't get dejected. A lot of people who begin with drape find it helps them start to understand flat pm and vice versa. Why not try out an exercise following a youtube tutorial?
I learned drape with "Draping for Apparel Design" by Helen Joseph-Armstrong.
For flat pm I first learned with "Principles of Flat Pattern Design" by Nora M. MacDonald. Just to let you know, you can buy older editions if they're cheaper. There's nothing wrong with them.
(P.S. Vogue V9076 is a similar pattern to your pic)
No. 195393
File: 1625217032756.jpg (1.41 MB, 2732x4098, 00005-Temperley-London-RTW-Fal…)
What RTW/high fashion brands do you guys look to for sewing inspiration/your next project? I save a lot of looks by Temperley London because they're tailoring goals (and I also like their dresses), but I'd really love to hear what others look at, especially if they're a little more wearable for everyday.
No. 195458
>>194756>>194760Thanks nonnelle, I was getting way ahead of myself. The shirt idea is really good, there's a lot of fancy shirts out there that will make a good dress. I looked up some sleeve adjusting and skirt drafting tutorials.
>>194945This is all gold, thank you. I did see that Vogue pattern but it was out of stock near me, I'm going to order it when it's in. I am going to find patternmaking exercises, I can't really ignore the fundamentals.
No. 196009
File: 1625358278020.jpg (629.97 KB, 1077x1600, 310089614680940864.jpg)
Absolute embroidery madwomen.
No. 196948
File: 1625767490569.jpeg (336.96 KB, 1600x1600, C6E00CDC-0320-4B89-8286-574B64…)
Might try making pic rel, (2 and 3) even though I barely know how to use a sewing machine
No. 197235
File: 1625911817080.jpeg (213.42 KB, 750x683, BF531BA2-9B54-438F-A44A-D156F0…)
>>196948Oh! I am going to make this exact pattern too soon!
>>197081Oof I hate PDF patterns
so much they are the bane of my existence. I hate how much paper it uses and using up my printer ink even if I use greyscale and toner saving mode and fast mode. I will never buy pdf patterns again if I can help it.
However, I figure because I bought a bunch of pdf patterns on sale (and some cute patterns I’ve wanted are from indie companies who only sell pdfs) what I’m going to do is put the pdfs on a usb drive and go to a print shop or library or something and print it there because it’s cheaper.
But if I can help it:
never againAlso, thanks for the site! I love it omg! I don’t even care that it’s pdfs! Gah!
No. 199172
File: 1627108560639.jpg (8.31 KB, 300x255, 300.jpg)
First time sewing with a stretch twin needle today and I broke two (one 4mm and one 2.5mm). What am I doing wrong? I threaded and re-threaded my machine exactly as a youtube video instructed for my specific machine, even reassembled the bobbin compartment underneath. Anyone have any advice? For specifics: I have a Singer 3223 and was trying to sew a rib knit fabric with tension set to 3, while playing with stitch lengths 2.5 and 3mm.
No. 199212
>>199209I saw that mentioned in my google searches. Wasn't sure if it was the root problem because I did the tension test where you hold it by the thread and dip it like a yoyo and it seemed fine. Might be ok to experiment though. Thanks for the suggestion
nonnie!
No. 199261
>>199212I’ve had bobbin tension problems that I only discovered when the bobbin thread on the finished garment started snapping because it was too tight! It’s a much more subtle problem than top thread tension. Definitely play around and see if that helps.
What kind of needle break was it? IE, did it remain on the thread, did it go flying off into space, did it bend first, etc?
No. 199293
File: 1627193632539.jpg (189.25 KB, 484x800, IMG_20210725_031250.jpg)
Hey there nonnies!
I've been sewing doll clothes for a little while now, I'd still consider myself a noobie but I've sewn simple dresses, skirts, tshirts, sweaters and pants. I really wanna do something a little more complex and I really liked this design, but I don't even know how to start. Any ideas? How do I do this shirring effect? Do I use an elastic band? Is it done like a frill for the whole top? I just need a little guidance.
Thanks in advance!
No. 199338
File: 1627228371371.jpg (382.77 KB, 1365x2048, 1e31ae_514223a6ca4b4eceb307830…)
Let's be controversial, nonnies. What's a popular pattern (commercial or indie) you see all the time and absolutely hate? For me I get what the Zadie Jumpsuit is going for but sometimes I just have to hatescroll its tag because it never seems to look good on
anyone. It literally reminds me of when Ariel had just gotten legs and covered herself with an old sailboat sheet. Makes thin women look frumpy and larger women look like they can't find anything that actually fits/flatters.
>>199293I don't sew for dolls, but my friend does, and I researched about it with her for a bit. You just used elastic thread like you would for a human-sized shirred top. Hope someone else here can give you more detailed advice. Good luck anon!
No. 199421
File: 1627267335652.jpg (65.36 KB, 740x1180, c5e2d2a564bdba90b3f36227ae74eb…)
I recently rediscovered this cow print cotton fabric that I bought and promptly forgot about. I have about two yards of it. I'm thinking about making a simple A-line miniskirt, or maybe a pinafore with a short skirt. What do we think?
No. 201973
File: 1628997396034.jpg (198.91 KB, 1536x2048, 236421034_420119139420701_4942…)
Bought 2m of this cantaloupe-colored yarn-dyed cotton with the plan to sew a simple buttoned blouse, but now I'm feeling experimental. Any suggestions anons? I'm open to tops, dress, and bottoms, though I don't really wear ultra feminine stuff like bows or frills.
No. 203631
File: 1630360176660.jpg (30.39 KB, 640x640, 232702306_1240500819784586_779…)
This might be a dumb question, but can anyone tell me how a mockup is used? I know it's just making a version of your pattern in undesirable fabric to test the fit and make changes, but what do you do with it after you make it and alter it? For example, if I needed to take in the waist on my mockup, what would I do to my final product? Would I take the mockup apart and then use the altered mockup pieces as my new pattern?
No. 203651
>>203631no questions are dumb questions anon!
generally speaking, if you make alterations to a fabric mockup it's good form to copy said alteration to your paper pattern. You could use your disassembled mockup as a pattern but I find it more precise to use net patterns (no s/a) and add seam allowances when i cut. As for what to do with finished mockups - if it's a big piece like a long skirt, the panels can be re-used to cut out smaller pieces for other mockups or draping something on the stand. I also use old mockups to practice new handsewing techniques or mess around with my machine settings, particularly if the pieces are too small to be re-used elsewhere. Hope this helped!
No. 207109
File: 1632704829904.jpg (284.75 KB, 1500x1874, IMG_1162 copy.JPG)
I recently found this girl on instagram, and she posted the pattern for these pants for sale if any anons are interested. I'm thinking of buying her patterns soon, they look easy to make and I love the simple look of them!
No. 207344
File: 1632885790069.jpg (84.15 KB, 640x640, ddc20a96a0f4e0fbe0c450c7766563…)
>>207331I've been pushing that project for literal years lmao
But when I finally do it, I think I'm doing something like picrel
No. 209346
File: 1634152636613.jpg (362.59 KB, 1080x1192, Screenshot_20211013_204322.jpg)
I want to dupe this coat with a Lekala pattern, I don't want to make big pattern alterations, besides making it oversized in the arms and longer length I think this will work
https://www.lekala.co/catalog/women/jackets/pattern/2289#model No. 209347
File: 1634152679895.jpg (161.04 KB, 983x961, Screenshot_20211013_205913.jpg)
>>209346The pattern flat looks right to me but I'm not an expert
No. 209366
>>209347The style lines are similar, but if you wanted to replicate
>>209346 exactly then you'd probably need to widen the shoulder seam to create that cute slouchy, relaxed fit in your inspiration image. Also, the pattern you chose has a yoke and the inspiration pic doesn't but it seems like a nonissue to me
No. 210121
File: 1634668883797.jpg (172.13 KB, 1482x1800, 9b.87.88.D3BranditBWParkaschwa…)
I need a jacket/coat for autumn and winter and I just can't find anything that matches my expectations, so I guess, I have to make one myself. I'm a dressmaker, so sewing that thing shouldn't be the problem, constructing the pattern is a another thing (trainee in that subject right now, kek). I thought about something like a military parka with detachable, fluffy wool or cotton lining, as I'm not freezing very often and most jackets are way too warm for my needs. So I could remove the lining when the temperatures are above 5°C and insert it below that.
Has anyone of you some instructions on how to make the pattern for something like this or maybe a pattern where you can see how it works with an detachable lining. Guess if I could see the pieces needed I could come up with something for myself.
No. 210298
>>210133there are few jackets that have something like that and I just like the idea. Snaps is a good idea or maybe normal buttons.
I wonder how it works construction wise, my idea is, that I will make the lining fitted and the jacket 2 cm larger, but I'm not sure if that's enough and the right way. Pattern construction is just a very different thing compared to using a pre made pattern.
No. 210898
File: 1635175632896.png (2.11 MB, 1584x1050, couture-herringbone-stitch.png)
does anyone have any links for hand sewing tutorials? I want to make my own clothes and accessories but I don't have a sewing machine. I know how to sew and can embroider. is it even possible to make simple clothes without a machine?
No. 210909
>>210898I love hand sewing, it's my favourite part of any sewing project especially as you get better and the stitches look professional. There are only really a handful of stitches you need to know to construct a world of garments. Vidrel is a decent start.
If you just want to make clothes, get a second hand non-computerized sewing machine. But if you want to hand sew as a craft in itself, it's so beautiful and rewarding,even if you do small things like alterations, you'll be amazed how strong and clever these stitches are.
No. 210917
>>210913Anon is likely referring to the anti-milk thread over in /ot/ where some anons said they liked her and another had a full on meltdown over it, referring to her as geriatric and a liar, etc.
>>210912No one. Nonita just can't think for herself or realize that even "controversial" content creators can make useful tutorials from time to time, such as Michelle Phan. Her early vids were great for absolute newbies to makeup even if her recent videos are clickbaity and devoid of the same care and magic.
No. 210993
>>210964Well that sucks, it seemed like such a nice and relaxing hobby.
>>210957>advocation for corsets based on the fact that she wore a medical corset for many years That really bothers me too, it's just not the same thing. Karolina Żebrowska also goes on about corsets being great while totally ignoring all the women in the 1800s who wanted to get rid of them.
Also does Bernadette have an ED, she looks scarily thin sometimes.
No. 211005
>>210993it is for the most part but if you want to share your creations or even look at other people's expect to be bombarded with social justice tripe. Like
>>210957 said, a lot of them tend to insert their own politics into pretty dress content which is really irksome imo
No. 212032
File: 1635916124561.jpeg (4.14 MB, 4032x3024, 8CD39AFC-8116-4664-9D1F-7DD75B…)
Have any farmers had experience repairing old lace? I want to start buying dresses from the 30-40s and altering/refurbishing them to wear out. I bought this one for super cheap and it’s beautiful but the lace has a lot of holes like this one. I made a thread on Reddit but because it’s not a home sewer mommy project or vintage wedding dress restore it’s not really getting any traction
No. 212069
>>212032The only thing that comes to mind would be trying to mend it by connecting the tiny tiny individual threads somehow with newer similar thread to sort of reinforce it, as if carefully trying to mend something knitted that has a hole in it. Got no idea if the beautiful pattern of the lace is fully reparable though. You could also try to use miniscule patches of similar lace to fill in the holes, and try to connect the edges to the old one. It does carry a risk of looking… patchy in the end though.
Agh, I'd struggle with this one too. I guess your method would vary by how absolutely precise you want to be with restoring it. A more experienced seamstress with more knowledge on restoring might disagree with my ideas though.
Have you tried contacting anyone who could help you expand your knowledge on how to restore garments like these, or at least explain what's up? You might want to look for hobbyists that are specifically into this sort of stuff instead of just general sewing projects.
No. 212082
>>212032If it’s very fragile, replacing the lace is better.
Sometimes starting a repair rips more fabric.
But if it’s mostly ok, this is a basic mend to stop it getting worse.
No. 212255
>>212074ayrt and I really wish I hadn't gotten instagram to lurk their profiles. Youtube comments are usually safe though! The creators you listed are usually drama-free but Enchanted Rose Costumes was recently cancelled for comparing vaccine mandates to holocaust tattoos.
>>212032as a vintage collector this hurts my heart, hope you get that repaired ok anon! If you need any tips for acquiring wounded bird pieces to mend and wear for cheap, check out ebay. Got a few great deals off there for both garments and vintage sewing notions and trim to make my garments as authentic as possible.
No. 214012
>>213984Fucking kek. God bless
nonny.
No. 214594
>>212793were in Europe are you based? I'm at school right now to become a "pattern maker" (don't know the real English term) and two known companies in Germany for dress forms are "Berliner Büstenfabrik" and "Spur Dressform". I also found "Royal Dress Forms" online, I like the idea of rather soft dress forms for corsets and stuff like that. Other brands I can think of are Stockman and Kennett & Lindsell, for non German stuff. I don't have much money at the moment and I think about making myself one of those
https://patterns.bootstrapfashion.com/diy-dress-form-sewing-pattern.htmlWhat you have to think about is that many dress forms are for rather "short" women and if you study fashion design you would probably go for women taller than 1,68 m.
For your mental health, I don't have any real ideas, I'm struggling myself right now. I love what I'm doing but I feel so tired and out of ideas. Maybe just make a basic pattern for a skirt and create some fun stuff out of it.
No. 214717
>>214594Have whipped up a bootstrap dress form myself and it was really easy to put together. The shoulders did come out a little funky though but I think that's an error on my part with how I stuffed it, but I made little shoulder pads out of scrap cotton canvas and those seem to have done the trick filling the space in. It cinches down fairly well with my 1890s corset but it wrinkles in the back a little when you tighten it. Nothing a bit of steam can't sort out but if you're a perfectionist you might be bothered by it
>>213984seamstresses with legendary auras, thanks
nonnie No. 216427
File: 1638933759995.jpg (976.46 KB, 2048x3070, tumblr_adbadf9f0001936c3d0330c…)
How would I go about sewing a blouse with sleeves like this? I'm having trouble imagining what the pattern will look like. What are they called?
No. 216442
>>214741Singer 1306!
Straight and zigzag stitch, automatic buttonhole option, easy to thread, haven’t had any trouble with the timing belt in three years of frankly abusing the machine, and with the right needles you can sew a big range of fabric weights. Like, from chiffon to layers of cotton duck. Decent throat size unless you want to quilt. It’s cheap and reliable and most sewing machine repair shops know them really well so it’s easy to get repaired if needed.
No. 216499
File: 1638987976971.png (260.77 KB, 652x717, 4083db82c9ebe4b84a7aa7957bd01a…)
>>216427It should work if you make a normal puff sleeve. Divide the sleeve into parts, cut them apart and put space between them. You can experiment with how many parts and how much space between the parts you need to get the same result as in the picture. After that you will have to find a new seam line where the middle part of the sleeve will be sewn to the lower part. Something like shown in the picture. That will make the fabric fall over the seam and should get you that puffy look.
No. 219135
File: 1640335871188.png (1.73 MB, 1356x1918, kwik.png)
Can someone recommend patterns for garments that aren't…. this? Almost everything looks like a stiff paper bag, or it's another wrap dress. What gives? Am I missing something?
No. 223478
File: 1642137129681.jpg (108.29 KB, 570x737, il_570xN.3120807139_ch1z.jpg)
I found this cross stitch pattern guide from a used bookseller on amazon and I'm super excited to get it! It's kind of hard to find any info on it because it's from the 70s, but it appears the finished design is 14 in x 14 in or 15 x 15, so it's quite large and intended for a pillow. I'm thinking it would look cool on the back of a jacket or a tote bag, though. I would love some ideas about what else I could do with it.
No. 223489
>>223478Ahh, this is so cool. I don't know how to do any needle work but this makes me feel pretty interested to look into it.
I like your ideas of a tote bag, jacket. It would also just look cool framed and hung on the wall!
No. 229159
File: 1644207328742.jpeg (190.29 KB, 750x921, 34F97990-FFCC-4FC5-B18C-53B952…)
Can someone clue me in on the fabric that’s used for the black far left top? I think it’s a kind of yarn but it looks more “tight”.
No. 230518
File: 1644816861039.png (553.05 KB, 1960x2000, 8899BE9C-9C80-4C3B-98AC-B13FE8…)
Hi embroidoids,
>>213984 here!
Here’s a pattern made from one of Elaine Reichel’s samplers. More of her embroidery pieces:
http://elainereichek.com/Project_Pages/8_WhenThisYou/WhenThisYouSee.htm>>229135There was one left on Amazon so I got it and will scan when received!
No. 230519
File: 1644816941564.jpeg (113.21 KB, 1308x188, D0547279-036F-4C8C-85BD-3BEBBF…)
>>230518Colors approximate ofc
No. 244159
File: 1645484818409.jpeg (4.23 MB, 2496x3832, 56DF0883-48F4-4B8E-A432-970868…)
>>223478>>229135Sorry about the watermark, here’s the captive corn
No. 244185
File: 1645485097268.jpeg (2.06 MB, 3280x2128, 7EC1A1E7-0ABB-42DF-9AC4-1D2804…)
>>244159Cover and general instructions
No. 245646
File: 1645596378133.jpeg (113.08 KB, 505x1021, CF04F6A5-841A-441B-B110-98E616…)
I bought this coat. Didn’t realise at first that it was a Tall and that the model in picrel is 5’10. I am 5’6 so this will be a problem. Any way I can hem it?
No. 245688
File: 1645622306314.jpg (519.18 KB, 600x800, hems4.jpg)
>>245646Here is an article on blind hems as I think the coat doesn't have a visible hem. Let the coat hang for 24hrs and measure the new length of the sleeves and the coat. best thing to do is to make two lines one for the new length of the coat when folded as a hem and other as a marker on cutting the excess fabric. For the lining you can sew that over the folded hem of the coat.
https://blog.megannielsen.com/2013/03/tutorial-hand-sewn-hems/ No. 245718
File: 1645638241791.jpg (193.55 KB, 1280x853, RepairCoatLining_007_2017_11_2…)
>>245646First you have to know how much shorter the coat has to be, then I would open the seam between lining and outer fabric at the bottom of the coat and have a look how they made it. After that I would shorten both lining and outer fabric according to the length you need, don't forget the seam allowance. The outer fabric is folded into the coat, so the lining can fold over the outer fabric inside the coat. It's constructed like the example in the picture, to give you place to move (sry, can't find the right words today). If you have a sewing machine, you can turn everything on the left and sew it, leave a hole, turn it back on the right and close the rest with the catch stitch.
No. 247087
File: 1646182808403.jpg (90.87 KB, 733x657, fabrics.JPG)
Not sure if this should go in fashion or sewing, but I saw this rainbow cotton at Joann's and I'm kind of obsessed with it, particularly the one with the black background. I also have a pattern for a cami dress, McCall's M8209, that I have been meaning to try out. I wonder if the print would make a cool dress? I could do it all over or half pattern-half solid black like the pattern shows. Wondering if this would be cute or too loud and tacky.
No. 247090
File: 1646183686963.jpg (1001.05 KB, 1862x2560, M8209_03-scaled-1.jpg)
>>247087I think you should go for it anon, it sounds cute! The pattern is quite large and simple so it shouldn't melt the eyes like a more intricate pattern might. I think the half black and half rainbow idea sounds really nice, it could maybe kind of show the pattern off a little more and make more of a statement. I can't put it into words very well so I hope what I'm saying makes sense!
No. 250181
File: 1647463901056.png (1.93 MB, 1000x1549, pattern.png)
Is there anything like z-library or libgen for sewing patterns? I feel like all of the patterns I like are kind of expensive for a poorfag like me.
No. 250182
File: 1647463978145.jpg (64.26 KB, 574x552, skele.JPG)
I'm new to cross stitch, but I think it would be a cool idea to put this design on a round canvas bag that I found on amazon to make a custom bag for myself. I'm wondering if it would be easier to stitch it onto aida and then sew it onto the bag like a giant patch, or if I should stitch it directly onto the bag using waste cloth. The only difference I can think of is whether the design will be slightly raised off the bag or right on the surface of it, if that makes sense. Also, if I was using waste cloth, I'm not entirely sure how I would get the bag's face into a hoop but I guess I'd just have to try my best. Can any anons give me some advice on this?
No. 250186
File: 1647466583108.jpg (1.33 MB, 3003x2340, IMG_20220212_133516~3.jpg)
I've been embroidering for a while but I still can't get some techniques right. I hope I'll be able to embroider some of my clothes without fucking it up one day! Here is one of my latest works.
No. 250194
>>250182I found this video quite helpful
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6p8rpyj3y5Q if I would make such a project, I would stitch it onto the canvas bag, using fusible interlining and a lining for the bag, so it's stable and won't get damaged when I put stuff inside the bag.
No. 251939
File: 1648281598168.png (1.7 MB, 857x1200, __original_drawn_by_yujup__c81…)
Nonnies I need advice. I've had a Brother sewing machine for a decade now but I've never ventured into actually making a garment. I've only done minor clothing adjustments, fixed tears and holes, things like that. But I've always wanted to be able to make clothes for me, sadly I cannot afford proper classes with a seamstress. Do any of you know of maybe a youtube series of "sewing 101" that's reputable? maybe even a blog, anything that could help me get the basics right and expand on the little knowledge I have. My ultimate goals are solely be able to make a maxi coat, a flared skirt and a sundress. If possible maybe even a bonnet.
No. 258266
File: 1650694772456.jpg (171.99 KB, 1500x1231, 9ac48b10020bad52c318a5e04e8daf…)
do you guys have a favorite machine? or maybe a dream/ultimate goals machine? I really love the Singer Rocketeer (picrel) from the 1950's. it looks like a beautiful classic car.
I'm saving up for a Janome HD 3000 BE in black, as well. I'm so sick of fighting with cheapy machines. the woman who runs the sewing lab in my hometown had me sit down and sew through like 5 layers of denim with the Janomeand it sewed through like butter. it felt so secure compared to the plastic, computerized machines I've been using for years. I love that the Jenome HD 3000 is fully mechanical so I can learn to repair and maintain it. manifesting!!
show me your favorite machines nonnies! it can be your current machine too, of course! and if anyone is comfortable enough, pics of your craft spaces/sewing rooms would be cool, but totally understandable if anons don't want to post their personal spaces. I work on a tiny desk built into my apartment, but I used to have a gull fledged crafting space that I was proud of
No. 260030
File: 1651323079553.jpeg (238.85 KB, 768x1024, e62635be-5793-4258-8d87-0574dd…)
Embroideryanons, can I hand embroider straight onto a garment like pic rel? I have a green knit ribbed sweater I got for pretty cheap, I want to add something to make more interesting. Should I even use a hoop for this or will it stretch and distort the fabric? And what about the back?
No. 260683
>>260030Make sure the garment is hefty enough to support whatever you want to embroider on it. If the fabric is too flimsy it won't support your designs! Also I think you need to use some kind of stabilizer on the back of the fabric. Good luck!
>>260242Omg yesss… manifesting nonna. I was so pumped when I looked the machine up and saw that it came in black. I took it as a sign lol
No. 261005
File: 1651600468914.jpg (41.44 KB, 700x525, large-juki-ddl-9000-b-ss.jpg)
Do some of you have any book recommendations, everything around the sewing subject, from pattern construction over fabrics, leather, how to sew, etc? I don't care for the release date, so could be a new book or something that is 100 years old, just something you thing that is really good, interesting and maybe helpful.
>>258266my dream machines would be an industrial sewing machine (a Juki or Brother) for everything, then an industrial overlock and a household sewing machine for zigzag stitches and stuff like that, maybe even an industrial sewing machine for leather. Problem is, no money and no space for all that, got one room with my desk, bed, closet and everything else in it, a sewing machine wouldn't fit anymore.
Are those Janome HD 3000 and 1000 really around $500? Maybe I should see if I can get a look at them somewhere in Germany, a black sewing machine would be very fitting for me, kek.
No. 261954
>>261005Industrial sewing machines are a dream to work with. I have an eletronic industrial one and its wonderful.
I found some very interesting pattern books (A tecnica de dei modelli) online and they are packed with information you normally dont find on pattern books, like specific pattern corrections. But i only found them in italian language.
No. 262066
>>261954they are, they are reliable and work way smoother and faster than household sewing machines. At my former workplace we had some that were 25 years old and still running.
Very interesting books indeed, had a look at them right now and I guess I should learn Italian. Thank you for the recommendation.
No. 262703
File: 1652143755741.jpg (67.82 KB, 605x945, wrapdress.JPG)
Does anyone have any good recommendations for wrap dress patterns like picrel? I think this one is so pretty, but I can't help feeling like I could easily make it at home for cheaper than 52$ + shipping from UK. Here's a link to it so you can see other pictures.
https://www.disturbia.co.uk/collections/womens-dresses/products/celestial-midi-kimono-dress No. 262907
>>262883nta from before, but kek, I think that's the whole thing behind pattern making, I'm at school for it right now and get to know all the basics, but if the "market" doesn't want high waist jeans, you won't design high waist jeans and if you only need to change the placement for a pocket about 5 cm, then you do it.
As you are designing jeans, has the fabric choice changed? In Germany it seems like people start to prefer fabric without elastane in it, just pure cotton, did you notice that, too, or is that just something going around richer people trying to be woke and safe the environment.
No. 263091
>>262907Yes, most brands are running 100% cotton denim nowadays, which is easier to achieve pretty washes in. The company I work for still uses 98/2 stretch denim most of the time though. It’s not as pretty or durable but it boosts true to size ratings pretty substantially.
A big challenge for us in the US has been the trade tariffs & legislation on Chinese sourced cotton (and maybe inflation to some extent?). Cotton is so much more expensive than it was just a few years ago so margins have gotten tighter
No. 263406
>>263045>>263091>>263398thank you all for the information. It's really interesting to see that this seems to be a global trend and not just a European thing. I think that 100% cotton will really be more durable. For the environmental effects it doesn't change a thing as cotton is produced under horrible standards. I wonder why they don't go back to using hemp in general, there are some stores that sell jeans made out of hemp in Germany and those jeans seem to be very durable.
Love that you shared your knowledge, especially as you seldom have the chance to work with people from different countries.
No. 266282
File: 1653531291313.jpg (22.9 KB, 654x879, 30026f216b8525aa3a4c86c9e8d9d2…)
I found this exact dress at a thrift store today for a really good price (it was like 50 cents for the sale they had today) The rabbit collar was too cute to pass up. However I'm not in love with the cut of the dress on me, it kind of looks like a judges robe kek. What modifications do you think would make this cuter? I'm thinking about adding buttons or trim to it
No. 266297
File: 1653544688628.jpg (48.78 KB, 693x1500, 61KL7oZFd6L._AC_UL1500_.jpg)
>>266282What a cute find, nona! If the dress is too rectangular, I would recommend waist darts or other tailoring at the waist area to give it some shape in the body. That way it might look less flowy/robe-like as you put it.
If the sleeves are too large in the arms/wrist, I would also consider playing with the sleeve length! A fitted 3/4 or short sleeve would be very cute.
No. 267903
>>267828>>267899jeez I didn't expect the hostility. I find it a core skill because even my own clothes I still have to ask my mum to fix for me, hence my wanting to learn, not just to help my partner.
Anyway thanks I guess.
No. 268287
File: 1654446412943.png (252.65 KB, 734x552, 124447.png)
do you guys have any ideas about using and storing sewing machines? i bought a singer 99k almost a year ago and admitidly i have just left it in my garage because I thought I would use it there, but now my dad is using it for his car and it's also really unplesant in there. I was thinking about getting a sewing cabinet but i don't want anything expensive because i might move across over seas in the next couple of years. i was also thinking about getting a small foldable table too but I still worry about the lack of workspace.
No. 268359
>>268287When I'm not using my machine I unplug it and put the dust/carrying cover on with the cords wrapped up neatly in the space inside. I have a large foldable work table (think those ugly cheap grey ones lol) but before that I just sewed on a regular desk and cut large projects out on a freshly cleaned floor. It hurts your neck/back sometimes though so be careful you don't slouch too much and take some breaks to stretch.
You can make a small workspace work with bigger things if you pin your fabric in place so it doesn't shift, fold the excess fabric to be put on a chair or the floor, and cut things out one at a time. Sewing weights can help make sure the fabric doesn't slide off if it's wider/longer than the desk.
As for using your sewing machine, your user guide manual is at the top here: singerco.com.au/support/manuals/
I really recommend reading your guide all the way through and to save it for reference. I also attached a video on how to service it yourself just in case you can't find anyone in your area to do it for you since it is a vintage machine. Happy sewing!
No. 270424
File: 1655305228528.jpeg (68.96 KB, 480x640, Celestial velvet.jpeg)
How do I stop buying prints and patterns when 99% of my wardrobe is solid colors reee
No. 270434
>>270425sadly there is a difference between alteration and dress making, I'm a learned dressmaker, only had to alter clothes one time, as you go to other shops for that. People making alterations have tricks to do it fast and cheap and I would like to learn those but not work at an alteration tailor to learn there, kek. Had the hope that there might be a book out there, as I dislike watching videos, but I will have a look at With Wendy.
>>270424it's nice how the moon in that seam fits, kek. If you like patterned fabrics, don't stop buying them or give you a rule, something like "one patterned for ever 10 uni fabrics".
No. 270969
File: 1655621073091.jpg (33.99 KB, 353x499, 51R7Ub4xscL._SX351_BO1,204,203…)
>>269339I work for an alteration place and you learn a lot of new tricks even when you have an extensive sewing rep. I agree with
>>270434 building something from the fit and pattern up is very different than altering pre-existing garments.
If you want a book on alterations, don't buy something that advertises making or altering patterns (e.g. "The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting") as those books will probably be 90% of what shows up in a search. I looked and found "Mending and Alterations Made Simple: A Complete Guide to Clothes Repair" by Anna de Leo and read the table of contents, it looks pretty good imo. Good luck finding what you need!
No. 271079
>>270969alteration in my country is also a job where you have to be very fast and will be paid for how much you can alter in a certain time, so you need to know tricks that a normal dressmaker won't learn.
And thank you, looks like what I've been searching for. I have the "The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting" book and while it's helpful to alter patterns, it has nothing to do with altering already made garments.
No. 272440
>>272405I'm with you on this. I have a plaid dress where mistakenly I cut the centre fronts to be matching horizontally, but are off by 1/2" vertically. I don't have enough fabric to re-cut and even though I know horizontal matching is the most important/noticeable it still pisses me off lol it's been sitting in my room for months
I agree with the other nonas - finish it with the intention of improvement and then donate it. You never know who might love it even if it doesn't fit you!
No. 273144
>>273141You would need fabric, thread, needles and an embroidery hoop. Thread I like DMC, except for black, black I go for Madeira or Anchor or silk thread. Fabric I would use some basic cotton for the start (if you want to cross stitch, use aida) and hoop I like the beech wood ones from Nurge. For needles you have to try what you prefer, I like working with needles in middle length, but some prefer shorter or longer needles. If you decide that it will your hobby for the future, buy yourself a colour card with real threads from the company you prefer, like that one
https://www.dmc.com/de/farbkarte-500-mouline--perle-9004276.html so you don't have to run to stores for a colour check and you can just buy at the cheapest online store.
I would get some good books (I liked Stitch Encyclopedia Embroidery by Bunka Gakuen, you can find it on Zlibrary) and if you are interested in needle painting try books by Trish Burr. I also found this website
https://www.needlenthread.com/ very interesting for material, ideas and questions.
No. 273818
File: 1657127854068.jpg (92.52 KB, 500x667, 005933872alt3resize.jpg)
I need some new shorts but almost all the ones I like have a distressed hem, which I hate. I should be able to hem these, right? I need a heavyweight needle and a slightly heavier thread and my domestic machine should be able to handle it?
No. 273918
>>273818If the side seams on the hems are too thick you can hammer them to flatten them out. Fold them in the way you want to sew them and give them a few firm taps to flatten the thick bits so they'll go through the machine easier. Go slow over these parts too, sometimes I hand crank the stitching over them. Levis denim is the worst for thick ass seams lol
If your machine can't handle that you could always serge and topstitch the hem. Also what
>>273885 said if they're too short you could bind the inside with a bias bound hem. Then you'd only have to sacrifice 1/4" of length. Here is a good tutorial for it ->
https://www.cucicucicoo.com/2017/03/easy-way-to-hem-a-circle-skirt-bias-tape/ No. 274656
File: 1657552496331.jpg (58.98 KB, 800x566, needles.jpg)
>>274553if it's very close to real leather, I would use special leather needles and I'm sorry, I don't know the proper term in English, in Germany we call it needles with a "Schneidspitze" (maybe cutting tip?). It creates a little hole in the leather so the thread can go through it. If the leather isn't that thick, you might try a denim needle, but I really would use the right needles instead of just something you have at home.
No. 276923
File: 1658428969056.png (110.04 KB, 1440x880, 702BE22C-FD21-4E90-9B20-BED169…)
Another silly xstitch pattern a la
>>213984 No. 285502
File: 1662387227579.jpg (1.41 MB, 3120x3120, fabric.jpg)
I got this fabric from the scrap bin at the craft store, I have about 2 yards of it. It's a stretchy knit type of fabric. What would be something cute I could make with this print?
No. 285623
File: 1662424162689.jpg (6.22 KB, 183x276, Robe.jpg)
>>285502You could make light sleeping robe, one of those shorter ones. If you do a 3/4 sleeve it would look nice with some soft white lace trim
No. 289172
File: 1663727610578.jpg (92.06 KB, 1280x720, maxresdefault.jpg)
I've been thinking about shopping around for a cheap/secondhand serger. I am interested in making more garments for myself for everyday wear, so the finished, serged edge definitely appeals to me. Is a serger worth it, or should I just suck it up and investigate ways to finish my edges nicely on my sewing machine?
No. 289289
>>289172Sergers are great if you plan to work with sheer materials or don't want to mess with french seams. I have one and am quite fond of it, but sometimes it's just easier to do french seams instead of preparing my serger for smaller projects. If you get one, re-thread it by knotting your threads and then letting it run until the new thread color is set, re-threading a serger is one of the most annoying things a seamstress can do ime. It takes forever and a single wrong thread placement can break a needle (especially if it's attached to the lower "looper" needles. I have broken so many of those.)
But if you plan to be really hard on your clothes, I'd combine a serged edge and a french seam. I did that for a viking serk and it's sturdy enough to hike in.
No. 289325
Is anyone from you into sewing leather? I would love to learn more about how to use and sew leather, are there any good websites, books, knowledge I could have a look into, maybe with the goal to one day make my own bags?
>>289172buy one, as a professional I can tell you that you will enjoy using it, especially for knitted fabrics like jersey. And don't be afraid of re-threading one, you learn that over time.
No. 290168
File: 1664083434757.jpg (111.07 KB, 1059x846, Screenshot_20220924-222109_Ama…)
Can't wait to get a new sewing machine!! It's metal! And fully mechanical! AND BLACK!
No. 290803
File: 1664309590145.jpg (49 KB, 800x800, heviduti.jpg)
>>290168I just got mine today! Not all metal or black but I'm still psyched, gonna put it to a test tomorrow with few jeans I gotta hem and finish a shoulder bag whose seams my old machine couldn't handle.
No. 291658
File: 1664595027670.jpg (150 KB, 1200x628, featured-image-q-snaps.jpg)
>>290965I use a q-snap frame too, I like them because keeping the work taut is a lot easier than with a hoop. If it slides around maybe you could put some felt (preferably non-coloured so the dye doesn't transfer) in it like picrel to help with that?
No. 294911
File: 1666243747427.jpg (49.19 KB, 564x709, dc560cbfff1e9607da046295809a22…)
>>294832Congrats on your wearing your first dress anon!
You can overcome your nerves by always taking pride in your work! Most people have good things to say and want to see your fun projects. Some historical costuming ladies are snotty/nitpicky about accuracy (even about fabric content, like, come on) but you should just ignore them, if they weren't elitist about this they'd just go do it about something else. Who is anyone to tell you how to enjoy your hobby?
Do you have a favourite era? Mine is Edwardian. I made a more simple Edwardian outfit a while back, but I made the blouse out of muslin to test the pattern and never made it in a nicer fabric lol
No. 295212
File: 1666385659153.jpg (55.9 KB, 564x846, edwardianblouse.jpg)
>>295011Making jackets sounds so nice for the coming season, be sure to share how it's going!!
I made the patterns lol the skirt was a basic pleated one that I sewed and draped on a dressform, the blouse I made from a photo that I no longer have. It looked similar to this one though. For the lace inserts I just did seams, no lace. The pintucks were enough for one project lmao.
One day I want to make an s-bend corset and a full tea gown though, I've only ever made corsets using the Laughing Moon Mercantile Silverado pattern. It's pretty good but I had to nip in the waist more, it's very curved/smooth on the sides.
No. 295320
>>295295I want to learn how to make amazing looking stuffed animals, haven't gotten very far with it, but one day I will, kek.
>>295304nta, but honestly, if we could go back to the victorian fashion, everything with nice fabrics, corsets, etc, I would. I watched "The House That Screamed" some weeks ago and a fashion style like that would be amazing. So, please, wear that blouse with a long skirt, I would love to see people dressed like that instead of another girl/woman with a croptop and leggings.
No. 295386
>>295212Very pretty anon, I did lace insertion on my combinations! I made them entirely by hand a couple of years ago after getting into Bernadette Banner's content. Seems like a rite of passage in this niche little hobby of ours kek
If you want to make more curvy corsets, I recommend sticking to sources that are pretty close to the originals - I made one from the Symington Collection ca. 1894-ish and it has a beautiful shape. I've also had luck with Atelier Sylphe patterns although I still struggle with making alterations to edwardian patterns. If you feel like a challenge, this lady has digitised every adult corset pattern from Dutch fashion magazine De Gracieuse from the late 1860s-1920s. I got my jacket patterns from the period magazine!
Corset patterns link, if you're interested:
http://www.clusterfrock.com/p/de-gracieuse-corset-patterns-page-1.html?fbclid=IwAR1Rc0IYkGPsUeKAsfZLyQGrwhfDcWwx4xj4-MzyZdp1p2mjRxj52BtjuUA No. 295402
File: 1666480451560.jpg (1.83 MB, 1512x6048, halp.jpg)
I'm fairly inexperienced with my serger (it intimidated me so I kept it in my closet for 2 years kek). Trying to blind hem my many many black t-shirts that need shortening & I've been practicing with scraps bc I'm terrified to ruin my shirts, anyways, it's very difficult for me to see the folded edge of the fabric when it is passing under the needle (pic 1). Obviously the guide (white plastic piece to the left) is used for that purpose but there is so little room to see the fabric directly under the needle that it makes me a little nervous. The amount of edge for the thread to "bite" is sooo tiny in order to get the blind hem to lie flat when turned right side out (see pics for examples).
Anyways do you nonnies have any advice for me? The edge guide mentioned above seems flimsy? loose? enough that I feel like the fold can easily slide under it and makes it useless. Do I just need to practice more? I really really don't want to fuck up my shirts!
Sorry if pics are huge… lol
No. 295405
>>295402Samefag, white piece to the RIGHT
*Also pls no judge for the cat fur (aka cat sparkles)
No. 297488
File: 1667501125919.jpeg (40.73 KB, 480x640, fLr29iybFSVFG4ouDDBBAYun05fOpo…)
I have this blouse which I really like but it's too long and wide for me and makes me look bulky. I was thinking of adding some shirring to make it fit me better. Would something like picrel be possible to do for an amateur? I think it'd look good with a flared empire waist like that.
No. 297519
File: 1667516846273.jpeg (29.87 KB, 356x360, 1608403311798.jpeg)
I've mostly used industrial machines for sewing but am looking to get a nice, sturdy home machine finally. Any recommends, I live in Europe and do have some shops I can go to order or buy a machine but I wanna hear your actual opinions first nonas! I'd mostly use it for basic clothes repairs, I don't really care for any fancy settings.
>>295402For me, just using machines as much as you can makes you develop a touch for it, unless the white thingy is absolutely loose and wiggly, I think you just gotta get that touch with time.
Cute nails btw No. 297634
>>297488Do you have a sewing machine? Sewing some flat elastic on by machine is pretty easy but I’ve never done it by hand. I imagine it’s tricky to keep the tension even, though it should be doable.
And does the blouse fit well in the shoulders and arm area? Because if it’s baggy in those areas as well then it probably won’t look right. The elastic over the bust in particular is going to pull the armscye towards the middle of the bust if there’s too much ease there.
No. 299403
>>299398You can totally do it, it will just take ages. It’s a good way to see if you enjoy the general vibe of sewing and making your own things though, before making the investment of a sewing machine.
Start with something simple so that you don’t overwhelm yourself too badly and give up. Skirts and tank tops can be done pretty simply and effectively. They’ll still take a looooong time but it can be a mindful process!
No. 299517
File: 1668548948274.jpg (182.65 KB, 1024x845, dsc_6672.jpg)
>>299506I bought my first machine off Craigslist. A 1941 Singer, first electric model. The model number is 201-2. Bought her for $80 mounted in a cabinet, woman was selling off all her mom's stuff and had no idea what the machine was worth. Great starter machine as they're virtually indestructible so long as you find one that has been fairly well cared for… as in not left outside or in a humid environment. Only a straight stitch, but I make a lot of vintage/period pieces anyhow. If you search your area, you can usually find a proper sewing machine repair service with someone who knows their shit. Highly recommend reaching out to one if you find a vintage machine. I named my machine Audrey. Still trying to find one of the pic related beauties. Got one once upon a time but the poor girl was rusted through.
No. 301057
File: 1669464239419.png (653.96 KB, 525x700, CF1101B7-8AEE-443F-9D9E-B74B27…)
where can I get gobelin fabric like pic related, (or some similar heavy textured fabric) to sew with? nothing polyester - the description of the dress says it's gobelin cotton but I can't find anything similar online
No. 301150
File: 1669531483837.jpg (80.09 KB, 500x375, cotton gobelin.jpg)
>>301085thank you for all the info nona. I found what appears to be gobelin or some other similar heavy woven cotton fabric for sale, pic related, but I want to make a lolita op with it and still debating if this print would look good or not. the only other gobelin fabrics I found were half polyester or were only being sold in small squares so I guess this one is my best option
No. 303339
>>303323the only thing I can think about would be the seam allowance. If the side seams have more than 1 cm seam allowance you could open the coat at bust height and let the seams out and maybe get 2 to 4 cm of extra space. Sometimes you also have a seam in the middle of your back and you could make it wider their. Sometimes you have darts around the bust area where extra fabric could be hidden and you could open the darts and make them smaller. Important would be, that you sew nice curves, no harsh corners and stuff like that.
You also have to be careful around the armholes, you wouldn't want to make them bigger or else you would have to adjust the sleeves as well. If the coat has a lining, you might have to make that bigger as well.
And sorry, I don't have any tutorials at hand, can only find stuff about making a coat smaller.
No. 305138
File: 1672042641750.jpg (75.98 KB, 564x837, e902ba7f75c8b0e74ea7901300c683…)
I bought a sewing machine for myself for christmas and i'm really excited to start learning! I decided to start because I love vintage (especially 60's mod) fashion, it was also a culmination of my frustration that I couldn't find a plain black mini skirt that was cute and reasonably priced… I have my black skirt now! I eventually want to recreate picrel, liza is honestly 40% of my motivation
No. 305358
File: 1672228833018.jpg (258.65 KB, 1080x627, blue-argyle-scottish-tartan-pl…)
I'm a sewing newb.. how do I best repair a garment with a pattern sorta like picrel? It has a couple of spots where the threads have broken and they're starting to become tiny holes but not quite yet if that makes sense. I'm not sure how to repair it while disrupting the pattern as little as possible? I have more of the same fabric to repair it with if needed be.
No. 305734
File: 1672429933523.png (110.7 KB, 243x581, uniform closeup2.png)
Hi I have two questions: what is this type of skirt called so I can find patters for it? And would this kind of skirt be too complicated for a beginner? It looks simple but I'm scared that I might bite off more than I can chew lol
No. 305909
File: 1672513244393.png (382.65 KB, 535x421, sewing eyelids.png)
saw this and snorted out loud
also i got a plushie making book for christmas and can't wait to make one in the new year, once i get some supplies
No. 307492
File: 1673494461852.jpeg (36.32 KB, 334x550, 42C28C32-CC8B-499C-AAB0-1F488E…)
Any anons itt have websites used to archive sewing patterns from vintage sets? I only found one pattern for a vintage gram carebear through a bidding site but haven’t found any for the others.
No. 309597
File: 1674151110499.jpg (22.73 KB, 558x517, 940530_6093282.jpg)
I bought this on sale, I guess it's for little kids but I just wanted a basic one and this one was cheap. For my first project I will be altering a dress I have!
No. 309610
>>307492vintage patterns are just hard to come by as most weren't made on a computers like today. It's sad, I love old patterns, especially as it's my job and if I had the resources and time, I would digitise them for everyone, kek
>>309604maybe this might help a little bit
https://www.mlptp.net/index.php?threads/i-just-got-a-butterick-mlp-pattern-now-what.101490/you could use the pictures, trace them in something like inkscape and then print the pattern as big as you like
No. 312157
File: 1676029118613.jpg (300.92 KB, 484x645, kumyas sweet ice cream.jpg)
how hard would it be for a complete noob to alter an existing pattern a bit to fit me (one from otome no sewing for example), design a custom printed fabric that has a border print, and make a lolita dress? I also can't seem to find any good info on what size canvas to use for designing the print, how to make it repeat smoothly, just the general print design process and how to sew a border print so that it doesn't look broken up/choppy. I want to make something like pic related, or maybe even a skirt without the bodice if a jsk is too hard for beginners. would any of this be doable?
No. 312289
>>312205it's all in japanese I thought, which might make following along a bit tricky. but it's good that's included, maybe google translate will be enough to make sense of it
>>312209yeah I definitely won't use the printed fabric until I know what I'm doing, using old bedsheets is a good idea since I can find some at a thrift shop for cheap I'm sure
No. 312860
>>312232I'm the same, I want to make my own clothes and I'm very much capable of it (like I know how to sew and make patterns, etc), but I've gained weight and I want to wait until I've lost some of it. For me it's just that I don't want to spend the time and money on making something that I might only be able to wear for a short while.
Every pattern you find can be adjusted to your body type, if you understand the basics of pattern construction you can do it yourself. When you start making your own clothes, you might want to add more seam allowance to everything, so you can alter them later on, most dressmakers do it, like 3 cm seam allowance in the back of your trousers so you can gain a little weight later on. You should have a look at some books about pattern construction and from there you can start to understand bought patterns and where you need to change things so it fits. I recommend making a mock-up if you alter things before you use the expensive fabric.
For dress forms, maybe have a look at this one
https://patterns.bootstrapfashion.com/diy-dress-form-sewing-pattern/exclusive-diy-dress-form-sewing-pattern-and-a-complete-step-by-step-sewing-photo-guide-2553.html I think modifying an exciting dress form won't bring the same results as one that fits your measurements.
No. 321472
>>312232You're just delaying gaining skills and experience to make really cool stuff you genuinely love. So you could look at it this way: I'm not at my desired weight right now but I'm going to use this time to develop my skills so I can sew nice stuff by time I am at my desired weight.
Realistically you probably won't even want to take in most of your beginner clothes.
No. 321638
>>321472thats a great point, im a beginner and my first projects will likely be rough. i like that first draft mentality a lot!
and if i dont lose the weight, whatever. at least i can make things that fit my shape, no matter what that shape is.
>>321472 No. 322144
File: 1681766178825.png (37.2 KB, 484x437, 239847eaehbfdkbf.PNG)
>>321638In my experience, clothes that fit will significantly improve your looks at any size. Even just tailoring some basics to fit your current shape for practice is a great way to get acquainted with a lot of techniques, and you aren't making a whole garment start-to-finish.
Lately, I've really enjoyed turning some of my unflattering, oversize tshirts into cute fitted baby tees to give them new life.
No. 338527
File: 1688268233115.jpg (405.79 KB, 1116x1536, 59.jpg)
sewing noob trying to figure out this pattern - does it only include the bodice plus sleeves and not the skirt? I think I can tell which are the bodice pieces and sleeves but what are all the rectangle pieces on the bottom - the skirt? frills?
No. 338528
File: 1688268291831.jpg (291.1 KB, 744x1024, 04.jpg)
>>338527samefag here is what the dress is supposed to look like completed. from gosu rori volume 8
No. 338605
File: 1688322522547.jpg (499.47 KB, 1116x1536, Pattern.jpg)
>>338527As far as I see it (and I know nothing about lolita fashion), it's the complete pattern. I also found the whole magazine here
https://chochololita.livejournal.com/1982.html and the rectangular things seem to be the skirt and trimmings. If you need that dress for an event, start early, it's a lot to sew for a beginner and having enough time will make it more fun.
No. 339971
File: 1689190805250.jpg (71.13 KB, 741x742, shopping.jpeg.jpg)
Every time I use picrel to hem a regular jersey t-shirt, it stretches out the hemline ever so slightly. You have to apply pressure with the iron in order to bind the material with the melted adhesive, and that's enough to stretch my shirts out. The instructions say not to use steam but wouldn't that help with heat conduction? I'm wondering if maybe I should just heat the adhesive by hovering the iron over it and gently press it together with my fingers. That"s obviously still putting pressure on the fibers but I can be more gentle? Idk.. halp please (Side note/blog but I I am sooooooo fucking tired of trying to figure out how to hem my t-shirts without wanting to off myself. I literally had to walk away from sewing for the past few years because nothing I was trying would ever work and I was literally getting rageful. And I've been sewing for like 15 years. I hate this so much nonnas. I need to take apart/reassemble my sewing machine bc I had to adjust the timing of the bobbin shuttle but I messed up the disc that is connected to the knob which chooses different stitch patterns. I just want to turn the fucking thing on and sew without issues, for fucking once! Agh see I'm getting triggered just talking about it!)
No. 340006
File: 1689202823026.jpg (60.19 KB, 449x449, bernina-l220-seam.jpg)
>>339971Jersey fabric can be annoying to handle. It's not easy to hem or interface them, as they will stretch, because they are knitted and not woven like normal fabric. I never used interfacing to hem a jersey t-shirt before, only for the should seams so they won't stretch out over time. I'm not familiar with the product you use, I would use this one
https://www.vlieseline.com/Produkte/Buegeleinlagen/H-609 as it doesn't stretch much, if you really want to use interfacing for the hem on a t-shirt. Important is, that you pull the interfacing a little bit while applying, just a little bit, so it will snap back in place afterwards. You have to use the right amount of heat for the right amount of time and afterwards you have to let it completely cool down before taking the next step. I don't know what machines you have, but for jersey hems you normally use a cover stitch, like picrel, so maybe you want to invest into another machine so you have fun sewing jersey again. What also helps a lot and what we did before cover stitching the hem, is basting it, so it won't slip while it's under the machine.
I hope what I wrote makes sense as I'm bad at English today, kek. I've been sewing a lot of jersey shirts at my former workplace and that's just how we did it, no interfacing, basting and cover stitch for the hem.
No. 340132
File: 1689294427247.jpg (50.64 KB, 894x744, 613gKALpxyL._AC_UF894,1000_QL8…)
>>340006Thank you for your reply sweet nonna. Your english is perfect. Did you do any ironing/pressing before sewing the hems at your old job? Thanks for the tip to ever so slightly stretch the interfacing as I apply it. That's a great idea. It won't work with the product I mentioned but I'll definitely be filing that tip away for future reference. Funny you mention a coverstitch machine- I want one so bad but right now I can't justify the cost since I can technically achieve something very similar using my serger and/or sewing machine. Maybe one day… I was honestly just using the HeatnBond because I was so fed up with trying to hem the t-shirts using my machine, but I 100% forgot that walking foots (feet? foots?) exist, and I think it may solve the issues I was having, along with the fact that I fixed the timing of my needle and I fixed the bobbin shuttle. Please pray for me and all of my beloved t-shirts.
Also! I'm getting my first Janome sewing machine and I'm so excited! The body is aluminum and it's black! I kinda wish all the components were metal but I'm not brave enough to sink money into buying a vintage machine (yet) since it may require repairs. I'm happy because I can buy a service manual for the Janome and learn to properly service it myself.
No. 340134
File: 1689295646638.jpeg (356.1 KB, 828x503, IMG_5785.jpeg)
>>340132I went the older sewing machine route from fb marketplace. Found a singer 15-91, just needed the old grease cleaned out, replaced, and works perfectly. It was about 140-150 altogether. If you decide to pick up a metal machine, the parts are out there, ytube has some good tutorials on cleaning/servicing/using, and sometimes thrift stores or antique stores have the replacement parts for stupid cheap. I love mine. It’s beginner friendly as all get out.
No. 340234
File: 1689358872669.jpeg (54.67 KB, 628x501, shopping.jpeg)
>>340134I was looking into buying an old Kenmore off of Craigslist and I was shocked to see that a lot of the parts for this 60-year-old machine were still for sale from the manufacturer itself. I also just realized there's a Janome HD3000 and HD5000 but I read that Janome changed the motor output without saying anything in machines produced after 2018. That got me learning a little bit about sewing machine motor strength and how most new machines are pieces of shit now and I'm even more conflicted. Maybe I should go with the Kenmore after all
No. 343828
File: 1691520674478.jpeg (55.38 KB, 1105x832, 1691520487647.JPEG)
>>343737Thank you for the explanation
nonnie! I made a few mistakes so there's some ugly bits, but the bag feels nice and sturdy.
No. 343907
>>343900I'd say it depends on whether you can already sew and whether you have art basics! This is actually only the third thing I've embroidered and the first time I didn't follow a pre-made kit, and my previous attempts were pretty messy (but I didn't know how to sew so I struggled with super basic things like threading my needle). I do draw/paint a lot though, so that makes choosing colours and estimating proportions easier. This project also only uses fairly easy stitches.
If you want to try embroidery out with minimal investment, you could get a kit from etsy/amazon. It'll have instructions for everything and all the tools you need (pre-printed fabric with a design on it, all the embroidery floss etc), so you don't need to think too hard, and if you end up not enjoying it you didn't spend too much money.
No. 344212
>>340132sry, I got carried away and therefore my reply is very late. We would iron the hems before sewing them, always watching that we don't stretch them out. Then we would bast them and then coverstitch the hems. Most important thing about jersey is that you don't stretch it while dealing with it. You can iron it smaller and back into its old form with pressure and steam, but we had really amazing ironing boards and most people at home won't have them. If your sewing foot gets stuck or your sewing machine skips stitches, you can attach non-sticking tape to the foot, it really helps with stretchy fabrics. Hope your t-shirts are all hemmed by now and look amazing.
>>343724do you want to make the patterns yourself or not? If not, you will need a sewing machine with the equipment (like different feet, bobbins, needles, etc), hand sewing needles, scissors, chalk (or soap, I prefer soap), measuring tape, steam iron, ironing board, fabric, yarn and interfacing. For fabric, I like to feel the fabric before I buy it and I prefer natural fibres. So, if you buy the fabric online there should be the possibility that you can get a sample (for a low price of for free), if not, I wouldn't buy from those store. It won't be as expensive than high quality clothes but not as cheap as stuff from like Shein, in the end you will have fitting clothes made from fabric you really like, so it's worth making your own clothes.
No. 345673
File: 1692565437801.jpg (129.44 KB, 1600x1600, 71rQklbaqVS[1].jpg)
I recently moved to US from a country with limited sewing resources. I bought myself a digital sewing machine and went to a Hobby Lobby for the first time and I'm overwhelmed with the amount of tools that exist now to make everything so much easier.
This may sound super silly but this is all new to me.
Could anyone give me a list of essentials that would help so I don't just end up buying a bunch of useless things compulsively? Does anyone know if there's a tool specifically for making the knot at the end of the thread when hand stitching? So fat I got these and they've been a godsend!
No. 345769
File: 1692624390987.jpg (70.01 KB, 350x332, N0089A.jpg)
anons do you use thread magic/any thread conditioner, and do you find it effective in any way? I'm asking here as it's used with machine & hand sewing, though my actual use case would be cross stitch. My X's tend to look fuzzy - and no, I'm not using excessive thread length, just forearm length. Wondering if it's worth a try, some people say it does nothing at all. People mention it helps with threading needles and gliding the thread through fabric, but I didn't see much mention about the look of the stich itself in the reviews.
No. 346662
File: 1693229021322.jpg (41.93 KB, 800x800, sewing-gauge-610730.jpg)
>>345673please don't go for the cheap stuff and buy quality things that will last you years. Prym and Clover have good quality things and I'm happy with most things I've bought from them. Besides what nona
>>346617 wrote there are some others things that are good to have. What I always have around is:
- point turner
- magnetic needle cushion
- measuring tape
- Prym chalk marker with exchangeable chalk leads
- sewing gauge (like picrel, not sure if that's the right English word)
- tracing wheel with sharp spikes
- seam ripper
- tailor's awl
- lint roller
- seam marker set
- curve ruler set from Clover
- stuff for ironing, like a tailor's ham for example
I also mostly don't use chalk, as I find tailor's soap more comfortable, because steam will make it disappear and you can make it yourself from leftover soap, kek. And if you want to buy some scissors, get one with micro serration, they are amazing for cutting smooth fabric like satin or lining.
A fast way to knot your thread would be something like this
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R-IbkK9Gpo8 No. 346668
File: 1693236905102.jpg (57.67 KB, 556x630, 2622033.jpg)
>>346617>>346662These nonnas are 100% in their recommendations. I also have a large cutting mat like pic related. Very helpful for measuring certain cuts, rotary cutting and finding the bias. I highly recommend checking facebook marketplace for women unloading their sewing notions, machines, tables etc. as they typically have phenomenal prices. I recently picked up an immaculate Singer 177c for $50.00 and my prized straight stitch machine, a Singer 201-2 for $80.00 years ago. My 201-2 came in her original cabinet as well.
No. 347029
File: 1693514363315.jpg (248.35 KB, 1280x852, dogue-de-bordeaux-4360237_1280…)
we had to put our 10 year old french mastiff down due to cancer. i wasnt as close to her as my mother was, and shes taking it much harder. i wanted to purchase her a plush but cannot find a decent one that resembles how she looked and not just the standard Dogue de Bordeaux. plus they are from the uk and im not sure. i figured i could maybe sew one but i cant find any patterns either, and im not that amazing with sewing. are there any resources i can use to make my yown pattern to use? or some hidden one? she looked basically like picrel
No. 347119
>>347029sorry for your loss.
i think plushies are very hard, unless you go for total simplicity. while i cant find patterns specific to french mastiffs, maybe you could try blending more than one pattern. for example, you could use a dog body pattern, but use the head of a teddy bear, with an altered nose. that's the only think i could suggest. it would take trial and error. the wrinkles would be very hard to make for a beginner, but you could embroider them on. i don't know what else to suggest, other than not going for total realism.
No. 347180
File: 1693661546449.jpg (1.97 MB, 4080x1836, 20230830_140231.jpg)
Got into making plushies lately. Started with animal ones but I'm a weeb whose goal is to make husbando plushies. I'm pretty satisfied with my latest one (in picrel), but hope to make bigger and better ones.
No. 348357
>>348158I don't know what bee paper is but you can get rolls of pattern making paper from the store you buy your fabric from, they're not expensive. I've also used the backside of gift wrapping paper as a substitute when I first started out, not ideal but works.
>flimsy printer paperProper pattern making paper is even thinner, a bit translucent. You don't want much thicker because that's more difficult to pin and more expensive. Also bulkier to store if you keep your patterns.
No. 348393
>>348158seconding
>>348357, i myself use semi-translucent parchment paper. it's good enough for patterns, ticker cardstock is fine for basic slopers you'll copy to modify the basic pattern. also thin paper is the best if you copy patterns from a magazine like burda, if you're an eurofag
No. 348442
>>348357bee paper is just a specific brand of those rolls of pattern paper sold on amazon, the nearest fabric/craft stores are all quite far away so I can't get materials often.
that's true I wasn't thinking about how it would be more difficult to pin and store thicker paper but I can see how thick paper would make it inconvenient.
>>348393>>348395yeah I had a posterboard/cardstock laying around I was going to use for my first few patterns but after reading the replies maybe it's best I hold off until I have thinner paper.
thanks for the advice nonas. I'll look for a roll of pattern paper next time I make the trek to the fabric store.
No. 349776
File: 1695446027090.jpg (1.57 MB, 1800x2334, scan0086_english.jpg)
attempting my first sewing project using a pattern from otome no sewing for bloomers (pattern 6) - does anyone know what measurements are shown in the pattern pieces? are they supposed to be in cm?
No. 349777
File: 1695446453869.jpg (619.36 KB, 1800x2334, scan0087_english.jpg)
>>349776samefag I'm also a bit confused what is going on with the lace in this pattern. maybe someone who isn't a noob can understand. what does it want me to do with the lace in the top of the instructions? I don't get how it's supposed to be sewn on.
No. 350059
>>349777The top right picture just means that you have to make a ruffle out of the lace with two large stitches, pull the lace together with them until you get the length you need for your pants. This has to been done before you attach the lace to the pants.
Then you have to put the lace on the right side of your pants piece, with the edge of the lace close to the edge of the fabric. You can see the wrong side of the lace. Sew the lace onto the pants part, I think there will be a marked seam allowance in the pattern where you should sew, then use a zigzag stitch for the edges. After that you have to press the seem allowance upwards, it has to look like the lace is behind the fabric, the edge of the lace is hidden and the scallops are coming out from under the fabric. Last step is that you topstitch it, so it can't move around anymore.
I hope you understand what I mean, I tried it with a piece of kitchen paper and it should work like that, kek. If you didn't understand what I tried to explain, just tell me and I will make some pictures as soon as I have time.
No. 350127
File: 1695768876201.jpg (384.99 KB, 1228x1050, bloomers-sewing.jpg)
>>350108I had some time and made a little walkthrough, kek. In picture 6, please ignore the shadow, it would all be flat if I would have sewn it. This is the way I would sew it according to the pictures you posted. And I don't know if you ever made ruffles, if you did, ignore me, if not, keep on reading. You sew two basting stitches, mostly at around 0,5 cm and 1,2 cm, if the seam allowance is at 1 cm, and than you ruffle it and the basting stitches will stay inside the fabric until you did sew the ruffles were they belong.
And yes, if I'm unsure of how I should make something, I always make a fast mock-up out of kitchen/toilet paper or greaseproof paper (the stuff you would wrap your sandwich in), it's cheap and helps visualise the things you are about to do.
No. 352320
File: 1696966249236.jpg (74.97 KB, 700x699, 0x0.jpg)
is it possible to turn a regular bag into an itabag? Basically I want to take an old backpack, remove the front part and replace it with a see-trough material like an itabag. But I'm just wondering how doable this is and even if it's possible. Also what material should you use for the see-trough parts if you decide to do it? Vinyl fabric?
No. 357046
File: 1699171094004.jpg (39.45 KB, 457x775, Skirt.jpg)
I feel so stupid today, so any help will be very much appreciated. How would the pattern for that kind of skirt (it's a dress in the picture, but I only need a skirt) look like. I've been thinking about it for hours but my brain is not functioning and maybe one of you has an answer for me. Somehow I need to figure it out in the next 3 days, guess that's why my brain won't work properly, kek.
No. 358703
File: 1699947354430.jpg (102.5 KB, 987x362, Screenshot_20231114_133339_Sam…)
I'm a sewing noob who has only made doll clothes with simple straight and zigzag stitches so far, but now I'm trying to make some actual clothes and plan to learn how to overlock properly for that. Here is the stitch list of my singer machine, can nonas help me identify which stitch is the best for that?
No. 358955
>>358703Incoming sperg building off the other nona: since the point of overlocking is to finish your seams and prevent them from fraying, generally you want it to be as close to the fabric edge as possible. You can do this with a normal or even zigzag presser foot, but apparently they even make overlock presser foots too specifically to do this job! Many machines also have an overlock stitch, usually represented as a zigzag with dashes on one side, though in your case it could be the one with a zigzag that has dashes on both—I'd test on some scrap first. If all else fails you CAN actually overlock stitch by hand. It'd be really tedious, but doing it that way would ensure you actually get the stitch to overlock, aka go over the edge of the fabric; a simple zigzag might not do that, which likely won't hold up as well, since it'll still fray up to the zigzag stitch. That's why sergers usually cut off a bit of fabric, and why any good overlock presser foot does the same. Basically, you want it to go over the fabric edge. Good luck with your project, nona!
No. 359065
>>358754Too broke for a serger sadly. I'm not trying to go full professional, just want something that's better than zigzag stitch for preventing fraying
>>358955Thank you so much nona! The stitch with dashes on both sides worked pretty well, I'm assuming it will be even better with an overlock foot (<$5 on aliexpress nice). I'll report back once I manage to actually make something
No. 361851
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Considering getting picrel cause I'm not getting a real sewing machine anytime soon, I don't think
No. 362083
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I'm from a third world country myself, and imo the best compromise is to buy a electronic sewing machine that isn't computerized but can offer more variety of functions than a vintage machine. As other nonas said, maybe you will only need the straight stitch, but you also might need the common ones like zigzag stitch and some others that can be used for connecting fabrics, making hems and preventing fraying. The singer model I got was about $110 in my currency, first hand. Got it from a official showroom that had their own mechanic so I can go there to get it repaired in case there's any problem, but it's been months and haven't had any issues yet. You can get brandnew singer and brother machines for pretty cheap if you keep an eye out for sales.
No. 362116
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Do any nonnies have a Singer Heavy Duty? Some sewing youtubers I watch recommend it and it's within my budget, but my local craft shops don't have it so I can't give one a try before committing. I make simple things (soft toys, bags, want to start making clothes) so I wonder if something called "Heavy Duty" would be overkill? My main requirements are for the machine to have several speed settings and not get stuck when I'm adding lining to things. I've only ever used a garbage "toy" machine so far so I have no idea what's normal or needed for a real machine.
No. 362150
>>362116My own machine isn't heavy duty, but from my understanding heavy duty machines have stronger motors and can sew through more layers than usual, which I assume will lead to the machine getting stuck less often. My non-heavy duty singer machine normally runs great, but betrays me when I try to sew 4-5 layers of minky fabric when making plushies. It might be worth getting the singer heavy duty if you wanna make thick bags that use lots of layers or clothing that uses tons of thick fabric like denim. If it fits your budget I'd say go for it as long as you are buying from a reputable shop with warranty and refund options.
From the pic you've posted I don't think this machine has multiple speed settings. It's something I really wanted before I actually bought my machine and was sad mine didn't have it, but after actually using my machine I don't feel the need anymore since it only sets the max achievable speed, the foot pedal is actually what one uses to control the speed by applying different amounts of pressure. The speed of the sewing also changes based on your stitch length and fabric type, my motor sounds ready to croak when I sew small stitches on multiple layers of minky lol.
No. 363384
File: 1701970405623.png (11.09 MB, 3672x2649, 20231207_233329.png)
>>347180Back with more plushies! Tried a simpler look for these two
No. 364790
>>364563Step 4 of the tutorial links to a bunch of patterns, I used the MiNi盒子 10 cm one for my plushies.
https://aurora6290.wordpress.com/2023/09/06/plush-doll-nuigurumi-making-tutorial-%f0%9f%92%95/I highly recommend checking out the piyopicco youtube channel mentioned in the blog, she has lots of video tutorials on this stuff. She has a video showing how to apply the Mini pattern too, but it's subtitled in Japanese (I used Google translate app on phone to read)
https://youtu.be/AmjXWDD-xow?si=f8xUs3PyeHlUL6z_ No. 376104
>>375969>>375970I'm assuming you meant to reply to my post (the one above yours)? anyways if an 11 year old is able to make something wearable than surely I must be able to as well kek, maybe I can attempt a rectangle skirt and other simple things to build up skills
>>376025it would look ita even using patterns from otome no sewing and glb?
>>376037yeah I've actually been meaning to make bloomers but am having trouble deciding on what lace to use. sourcing cute and good quality lace is hard because I don't want to buy it directly from china yet everyone always recommends taobao or aliexpress. also I cannot fit in most secondhand brand because I'm almost 6ft tall and the dresses I want would look more like shirts on me due to their lack of length. sometimes I get lucky and find some btssb or innocent world that is long enough for me but most jp brands don't have anything I like that also has enough length.
No. 376621
File: 1706710558882.png (448.16 KB, 508x591, bag.png)
How can I sew a bag like that? The construction looks relatively simple, it's just all scrunched up.
No. 376959
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Made another plushie this month. This was the first female character I made, happy that she turned out cute. The clothes gave me a lot of trouble, I'm truly a masochist for making doll clothes with slippery silk kek
No. 386585
>>384844Thank you nona!
I have been thinking of selling my plushies, but I'm a weeb that mostly makes plushies of obscure fandoms I happen to like. Have any of you commissioned a custom plushie like my
>>376959? If yes, how much more does it cost compared to factory mass produced ones?
No. 387219
File: 1711322160762.jpg (31.24 KB, 365x500, s-l500.jpg)
>>386585How did you learn to make them? I'm interested in making them as well. Did you watch any tutorials or purchase a book like pic rel? Yours is very impressive.
>>386798Have you ever put in a zipper before? If not, do an easy pattern with an elastic waist or maybe even something with ties. Pants are not too hard, easy culottes are like two steps more than a basic skirt. Just make sure to follow the instructions and you'll be good!
Like this -> etsy.com/listing/499996295/culottes-sewing-pattern
Also the "I don't want to waste it" mentality is how you end up with a massive hoard of fabric you'll never use KEK No. 387338
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>>387219I'm the plushie anon, the piyopicco channel I mentioned in
>>364790 basically held my hand through every single step of sewing plushies. Some of her newer tutorials assume that you already know xyz and link to previous vids, but the first few videos she added English subtitles to were super detailed. I was so grateful that I ordered the sewing book she wrote even though it was in Japanese and I already knew most of the advice there thanks to her videos.
No. 387447
File: 1711407985374.mp4 (14.29 MB, 648x1440, 1000014646.mp4)
Took a break from making humanoid plushies to make a cute blob. Feeling complicated that my mom praised this more than my way more complicated plushies like the last beniyuri one
No. 387627
File: 1711486675625.jpg (173.2 KB, 1080x1747, 1000014664.jpg)
>>387551>>387592Thanks kind nonas, I am reassured now
>>387584cholyknight's free plush pattern book helped me a lot when I first started, picrel is my first ever plush which I made using the level 3 plush instructions in that book and changing things up a little by embroidering the face instead of using applique. She also has lots of other free patterns, I used her eeveelution blob plush pattern as the base when making the pattern for the purple round plush.
https://cholyknight.com/tutorials/You might also find the plushie 101 videos in this channel useful.
https://youtube.com/@makeshiftwingsplush?si=flkja9Z-oPLyPoGc No. 388567
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>>387633Thank you so much for doing the research, nona! When I was searching I only found factories and dropshippers shilling mass produced stuff at like $30 and was getting depressed since my material cost alone is close to that. Now I have a better reference.
Anyway, currently making a new doll with expensive ass shampoo model hair lol. It's been very taxing but he's shaping up greatly
No. 388977
any nonnies using modern singer machines? i was trying to find used husqvarna or brother machines, older models from 00s but I couldn't find any near me. so i thought i might get one of these modern singers, as i need buttonholes and few additional stitches i don't have on my vintage machine which i love but it's limited. i want to sew shirts and bound buttonholes are only fit for coats and blazers…
model that interests me is exactly this one that nona posted in thread before
>>290803. are they reliable, are there any issues after longer use?
No. 391211
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>>388977I don't have the exact model in that post but another from that line, I believe it's the 4452. For readily available domestics they're pretty good, I have used mine regularly for about 8 years now. Keep in mind the Heavy Duty part of the name just refers to all the moving parts being made of metal, not plastic. It isn't comparable to a true industrial or anything like that. It did struggle a bit when I tried to sew through four layers of canvas, so I wouldn't say it's incredibly strong.
I like it alright for sewing knits and other stretches, the thing I hate the most about it is that I can never get the buttonhole foot to work properly. That said, I did drop it in a parking lot 5 years ago and other than the plastic case being a little wonky it still works fine.
If you actually want a machine that lasts at a similar price point you're better off getting a vintage machine. Like a Singer Featherweight or 401A. I know many people love Juki but I have limited experience with them so can't say too much, but something else for you to investigate. I would avoid Brother unless you really like quilting or sew small things like doll clothes.
No. 391239
>>391211AYRT thank you for your insight
nonny! I still consider one of them though I'm still looking for different options before I'll set on getting a certain model. I actually already own a vintage 800 series singer clone which serves me well and has basic functions I need but I need some more functions that more modern machines have. It's mostly for buttonholes and blind hems, also as an backup machine when I'll have my main one serviced.
>I would avoid Brother unless you really like quilting or sew small things like doll clothes.Why? I found one simple computerized brother machine that got good reviews and has everything I need (5 types of automatic buttonholes, blind hem stitch, overlock stitch plus some really fun decorative stitches that would be fun to use with a wing needle) and I'm partial to it though one of these simple new singers would definitely last longer.
No. 391295
>>391239Which Brother model are you looking at Nona? I generally dissuade people from going down the brother route as I find their basic machines to be heavy on features but light on practical use. Yes it may have 40+ different stitches but practically you only need like three of them, so it feels like you're paying for the novelty rather than anything actually useful.
Don't get me wrong, I think for a casual hobbyist it is a perfectly fine machine, but for something that sees regular use and will be sewing anything heavier than a circle skirt they tend to struggle. It's the brand I have consistently had issues with that I couldn't troubleshoot my way through.
No. 396838
File: 1715385366762.webp (41.76 KB, 1000x667, sewing-kit-essentials.webp)
>>396622I would say a basic sewing kit needs:
Sewing needles in assorted sizes
Pins
A pin cushion or box
A safety pin
A seam ripper
Thread snips
Tailor's chalk and/or a frixon marker. White tailor's chalk is best, the colour ones can stain
A thimble that fits your middle finger on your dominant hand
A ruler or seam gauge
A point turner (kinda optional but nice to have)
A tape measure
Fabric scissors
Paper scissors
A nice pencil case to keep it all in
I think most other common things are for the machine, like replacement machine needles, bobbins, a screwdriver, different feet etc. If you're taking a class those things should be provided with the machine you're using. Same goes for the threads and possibly the scissors? Does the class provide your fabric? If they do, they most likely provide the thread as well.
You can buy a pre-made sewing kit, but be careful it's not full of cheap/low quality stuff. Working with dull needles/seam rippers/thread snips will drive you insane. Most travel/dollar store ones are crap. I hope you have fun at your class!
No. 396903
>>396622When I took a course, this
>>396838 was all provided to me (except for the point turner, scissors and pins, a pin cushion we made as our first project). As in I could keep it, not just for the duration of the course. You should probably ask before you buy stuff.
No. 397529
>>396903>>396838Hey anons, thanks so much for the thorough advice! I did buy a basic sewing kit from Michael's that included a seam ripper, small scissors, pin cushion etc and the instructor gave everyone some other things as well, like lockshift needles, the screws, bobbin stuff, tweezers. It was pretty fun and I just practiced sewing straight stitches which involved controlling the pedal which I still don't have exact control of. For next class, we have to pick out a beginner's pattern (with her approval) and WOVEN fabric. The instructor recommended to either make a simple skirt or shorts with an elastic band.
I was thinking:
-
https://www.etsy.com/ca/listing/1031405872/mini-skirt-aureliusdiyskirt-pdf-sewing?click_key=216d1b4add0347f8517c45bc5e5c12f19adc5003%3A1031405872&click_sum=c9045417&ref=shop_home_active_11&crt=1-
https://sewliberated.com/products/gypsum-skirt-pdf-sewing-patternI'm open to suggestions as well! Money isn't really a concern but obviously I would not like to spend more than 25 dollars for one especially as a beginner. Thanks in advance!
No. 402240
>>402211You can get 2nd hand sewing machines for a good price fairly easily. I see them regularly at thrift stores, you don't need anything fancy.
Alternatively, have you asked your mom/aunts/grandmothers if they have a sewing machine you can loan? Most older women have a sewing machine they barely use ime.
>>402220>preferably one that comes with a manualYou can usually find the manual for free online including for older machines! (That's true for tech in general)
No. 402250
>>402240They had but they gave them away/sold them cuz they're not into sewing
>>402244Idk if my country has that
No. 403441
I found a used serger online for only 170 bucks but there isn't too much info on it as it's from a company that got swallowed up by the larger SVP company. The seller said it's in good condition and it comes with accessories and threads but unfortunately they have no video they could show me. Should I buy it anyway? I'm still a beginner but the serger is so nice with the clean seams it creates.
>>402202Oh boy. So I'm more than halfway through but it has felt like a trial by fire. The course I'm taking at a school uses only industrial grade machines so I made a lot of mistakes before I moved to one with motor control. I had slightly more control with the industrial sergers but I cut off about an inch or two of fabric at the bottom so it's going to be way shorter than expected. The overlocked seams are wonky as fuck but they are overlocked. After that, I didn't follow the instructions for the invisible zipper so I had to remove the zipper entirely and redid it again. I was able to put it in BUT it's not very invisible… but I learned something I guess? The next step I have is to sew the waistband and tops of the skirt. The skirt… is definitely not wearable but I learned! Definitely not an easy first ever project.
No. 403502
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>>403441Good job
nonny! And don't worry, no one's first sewing attempts look good kek. Gaining a mastery of the machines takes time, you will get a feel for it eventually. Also don't look at the needle while sewing, look at the seam guide and hold the fabric there or look where you want the direction of the stitching to go and guide that to the needle. If you're watching the needle and not the direction the fabric is going while sewing, it's like staring at your dashboard instead of the road while driving. I practiced sewing straight lines and curves on lined paper and scrap fabric when I first started.
Also I'm going to be really honest with you, a lot of used machines you buy off marketplace or whatever are total crap. You can find good stuff sometimes but be careful, you don't have a warranty to go back on if there's an issue with it. Is the person you're buying from the original owner/sewer who worked with it? If it's someone selling their mother's old machine after she passed, then they really have no idea what condition it's in even if it seems to work. Also a lot of sewing machine technicians either won't work on super old machines, or they'll straight up tell you it's not worth it to work on because the fix costs more than what you paid for it. I got a used Janome XG-43D domestic serger from a local shop for 300 CAD years ago and it's pretty good, they were honest with me about it's user friendliness and how old it was etc. because they know machines. Maybe try seeing if there are any sewing shops that sell new and used machines around your area? It's harder for them to sell you a lemon because you have a place you can go back to and complain kek
No. 403981
File: 1717690770982.mp4 (17.35 MB, 480x1068, Test.mp4)
>>388567I completed it! It was a lot of work but I'm happy with the results. (Skill unlocked: sewing in a spiral?? kek)
No. 405294
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>>404951That sucks nona, maybe you can pick up some knowledge through youtube. I sometimes look at this channel to fix small issues with my machine.
https://www.youtube.com/@SewingMachineRepairGuy No. 407268
>>403502I got the skirt back from grading and I did better than I expected to. 7.2/10! Which is something I would have not given myself. For my second project, I chose an easier one (
https://peppermintmag.com/sewing-school/wrapskirt/) in an emerald green cotton fabric. Much, MUCH easier to work with than my last twill cotton too, but because it is thinner, you can see the holes from the pins and from ripping up seams. Oops. I finally have a better handle on the pedals too, for my domestic and the industrials at school (albeit I do use the ones with cruise control). It's been fun and I've been super hyperfixated on sewing!!
Last thing, I also did get the $170 serger and it's been working pretty well. The lady who was selling it was selling it for her mother, who used to be a seamstress. It's in great condition and came with a lot of extra cones of threads, paper manuals, and get this… a VHS manual. Hilarious.
No. 407417
is there any website, book, video, or other resource that goes over basically everything a complete beginner needs to know before sewing? things that explain seam allowance, cutting on the bias, mock ups, basic pattern drafting, sewing machine use and care, gathering, finishing seams, etc? every time I try and learn from a tutorial they always include terminology or things a noob wouldn't yet know. I'd really like to learn the terminology and basics/foundations before actually setting my machine up and trying to make something.
No. 407931
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>>407417Personally I learned to sew by a weird and probably inefficient mix of books (most not in English) and youtube videos. Even most of the English books I read were for a specific thing and not general sewing, but this particular book by one of my favorite writers describes the basics of sewing in very newbie friendly language, you can give it a try.
https://www.amazon.com/Sewing-Basics-Beginner-Friendly-Easy-Follow/dp/1574214233 No. 418055
File: 1721829283384.jpeg (81.64 KB, 960x723, 9d848d3d-108d-4251-b697-3c5c07…)
Nonnies should I buy this machine for 50 euros? I want to learn how to sew. I couldn't find any reviews in english about it, but I've read that the brand is good, and it's new in box.
No. 419306
File: 1722112998773.png (513.03 KB, 470x483, 1420515358759.png)
I bought a machine, I'm gonna learn how to make cute dresses!
I'm an adhd tard with a million hobbies but I've always wanted to try this one. I know I can make it nonnies.
No. 420186
File: 1722356679365.jpg (422.1 KB, 1333x1000, barbiepatterns.jpg)
>>420161You're probably gonna have to either buy secondhand patterns (relatively cheap) or learn how to draft them from scratch (free but challenging). Ebay is a good place to find cheap patterns, what size doll are you working with?
No. 420196
>>420186Thank you for the reply
nonnie, and I hadn't even thought of looking up patterns secondhand!
I am mainly wanting to sew for generation 1 monster high dolls, my first custom is the average body and my second custom will be the "little sister" body type. There are many cute patterns for them on etsy but alas no printer.
No. 421565
File: 1722772209588.jpg (1.03 MB, 1836x2599, 1000019216.jpg)
Made my first mochi minky plush~ Sewing was initially a nightmare since mochi minky is super slippery and stretchy. Using pins or clips weren't enough to keep the layers aligned so ended up basting all seams before sewing. It was fine afterwards thankfully. Also changed the needle to one specifically for knit fabric which may have also helped
No. 422453
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I posted in the stupid questions thread but I think you guys would know better. There is a pair of jeans I want to buy and I wasn't fast enough to get the size I wanted (26x30), so I have two options. I can get the waist in 26 with inseam in 32, or the waist in 27 with inseam 30. The model in this picture is 177cm tall, wearing 26x34. I'm 165cm with an inseam of 27-30. I'm not sure which one to get, because it seems like the rule of thumb is to get something that fits in the waist perfectly, but with the pant's tapered/curved leg opening, I don't know if removing 4 to 5 inches of hemming will preserve that cool barrel shape.
No. 423210
File: 1723290442447.jpg (113.19 KB, 1200x793, GUHSLdfakAA4CVx.jpg)
>>422864Thank you nona! The story of the pattern is a little silly, I noticed cholyknight's free capybara pattern (something I plan to make in the future) included the pattern for an optional orange, I just enlarged the pattern and edited the back a little bit to give him a tail (he's supposed to be a super fat snake lol).
As for the embroidery, I did it by hand, it was much easier than what I have done before (like
>>>/g/376959). The black part of the eyes is an applique though.
No. 424054
>>422453I work as a seamstress in an alteration shop and you could get the 27" waist and have it taken in to preserve the leg shape. If it's solid black you can have it done on the back seam as long as it won't pull the back pockets too close together. I always do my personal denim items on the sides because it looks the most original, but it's more money. I think they can definitely preserve at least some of the shaping on the hem by tapering it in a little more before they finish it off, but it might not be 100% the same. At the place I work at doing either job would probably cost almost the same amount kek.
I would say if you know you want that cool shaping on the bottom to be 100% original then go with the bigger waist and have it taken in, then all of it will fit you perfectly. Launder it as you usually would to pre-shrink the material first and take it to a reputable place!
No. 427538
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>>424877Thank you
nonnie!
Got a week-long break and spent it making an outfit for the plush I made before
>>403981. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out despite just eyeballing it without a proper pattern
No. 430458
File: 1726555238928.jpg (151.99 KB, 724x1500, 1000020831.jpg)
I love clover's fine pins so much, I deal with silk and thin minky that I need to avoid putting holes in, and these pins are the only ones I have that don't damage my fabric.
No. 431122
>>427538Damn
nonnie, you are my inspiration. If I posted my lame ass attempt at a plushie you would laugh, but I had a lot of fun doing it. I loved how the outfit turned out. That silky looking fabric must be hard to deal with.
No. 431135
File: 1726771677032.png (1.3 MB, 900x618, t3.png)
can anynonnie give me advice on where i may begin, as a beginner sewer, on making something like this? i was thinking of finding a top and just upcycling/decorating it in a similar manner, personalized with costume lace, maybe charms, etc., but im really overwhelmed figuring out what all i need, where to begin, or if its even possible.
No. 431163
>>431135I think upcycling an existing top is a good idea for a beginner sewer project. Your second picture is a bit more achievable, and I would recommend starting out by learning how to do this by hand. The little charms attached to the blouse like the bow and the doily can be called "appliques." When they're like a long strip that attaches to the hem or encircles a garment they're called "trim." You can google these terms and look up the sorts you can buy.
I'm guessing you know how to straight stitch/backstitch? If not, I recommend looking up how to do those first They create your stereotypical stitch line of ———. For appliques, look up videos for slipstitch and blanket stitch as they (imo) are the cutest stitches to use for applique. It's more convenient to attach trim with a sewing machine straight stitch, but it's definitely achievable if done by hand and lots of sewing pins.
No. 433690
File: 1727537486419.jpg (2.18 MB, 1836x4080, 1000021285.jpg)
South Asian here, this is my attempt at a kameez. Fucked up here and there (crooked collar line, oversized armholes, too large chest) but still a success compared to my past attempts kek
No. 434959
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>>434635It’s not much better on the other side of the pond. I live in an area known for textile production, many factories shutdown in the 80’s. In the 90’s you could still go to local warehouses and find what you wanted at affordable prices. Now there is almost nothing.
Last I heard the fashion district in NYC was hit hard by covid and it’s nowhere near what it once was. It probably will never return to what it use to be. Same in LA. Fabric is one of those things that you really need to see in person to buy the right thing for your project. Wools are especially hard compared to special occasion fabric or cottons.
No. 435094
>>435064same here, I saw sites listing blends as 100% wool even if they had 10-20% poly. same shit with linen, v*scose blends are called "linen" instead linen-viscose blends, similarly for ones with cotton but it's less of issue. even worse thing is putting elastane in linen which for me is a crime, because it has enough of shear already
>>434959I knew things were bad in US already as synthetics razed wool production starting with the 60s and by end of century it was already nonexistent and casualization of dress happened here way faster than in europe, so there was less demand anyway but now it's the same here too. but i believe you that finding good wool in US is an impossible task now, I browsed some stores and only few had decent wools which were designer deadstock and 100% wool but so few and with boring color options. It's horrifying that even high end fabrics suck now, i've read some fine dressing scrote's blogpost once where he complained about his suit from loro piana fabric was piling in the crotch area after two fucking wears. fabrics are thinner, more loosely woven, with thinner fibers which doesn't make them last
i genuinely hate cotton and polyester for everything and green politics tards defending polyester and acrylic so badly and using "vegan" excuse. people wore woolen garments in many cultures for centuries and they lasted but now it's supposedly bad and endless fast fashion is better for these people i guess.
No. 437746
>>437650Are the back pockets patch pockets? If so it might be easier to remove them temporarily and then install them again once your darts are in place. Ideally I'd try to avoid having to topstitch the pocket over any darts but it's probably achievable in lighter weight fabrics. You may also find it helpful to take in the center back seam to remove some of the excess volume as well. Keep the excess fabric as seam allowance as opposed to trimming it off in this case so it's there for any future alterations. Try pinning in a few different areas and see what fits best and remember to reflect any loss in volume in the facings/waistband of the pants as well. Some of the waist volume could also be removed by gathering at the waistband. Also, I really like finishing the tips of my darts by hand (like, the final few stitches) as I find machine backstitching on such a fine point can add a little bit of bulk or potentially get chewed on by the feed dogs on the machine. They look real nice that way. Best of luck to you and grandmother
nonnie!
No. 438045
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>>437963It would be more helpful if you described/posted pictures of what types of things you want to make nona
No. 438938
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Does anybody have any good advice on altering T shirts? I bought a machine in order to turn my band shirt hoard into baby Ts and it is so far failing miserably. I feel like a total failure, possibly because I am heavily autistic and picking up any skill seems insurmountable to me. Thanks in advance!
No. 448238
>>448233Love that for you!!
Make sure you read your machine manual before you start! Threading, bobbin winding, and tension are the main things. Don't be too overwhelmed! It's seriously pretty easy. Just take time to prepare to learn slowly at first.
Try making a pillow or pillowcase first. Start out with cotton or cotton blend fabric that doesn't stretch!!
Let your machine pull the fabric through. You should only be guiding the fabric!
Get a few 70/10 needles to start. That's kind of the basic staring point for light/medium weight fabrics.
Hopefully that helps some. Lmk what else you need to know!
No. 448247
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>>448233Hi
nonny!
>>448238 has great advice that I also second. If a pillowcase is boring you could do a drawstring pouch instead. One thing I recommend newbies do is get comfortable hand sewing too. Whip stitch, mattress stitch, cross catch stitch, back stitch are the big ones. Being able to do finishings by hand really elevates your work and prevents it from looking homemade. I probably handsew just as much as I sew by machine.
No. 448282
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>>448263Post WIP photos along the way and we'll motivate the shit out of you.
No. 448324
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Happy to see this thread bumped! I haven't done many projects lately, but last week I made a little round leopard to keep this squishy fella I made before
>>421565 company. The face turned out a little odd because the top stabilizer for my embroidery got ripped while I was working on it (quite hard due to thr very long fur), but he looks cute overall so whatever.
No. 448326
>>448324Its always a joy to see your creations from time to time. You've motivated me to resume the nui hussle after giving up due to having my project sucked up into the sewing machine multiple times. while studying piyopicco's videos I noticed she only sews the fabric on one side of the sewing machine feed so maybe I'll give it a try and see if it'll alleviate the fabric issue.
Your current project looks super cute and I love the addition of his necklace. Do you happen to hand embroider on the face, and if so how do you manage to do so on fabrics with long fur length?
No. 448331
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>>448326Thank you
nonnie! Hmm, when I first started sewing I also had the problems of fabric getting caught, it usually happened because of any of the following:
-too short sewing allowance (I started using bigger allowance than needed and trimmed it down afterwards)
-too blunt or too thick needle (best to start a project with a new needle, also pick a thick needle for thick fabric and vice versa)
-incorrect threading (just rethrrading solved the issue)
As for the face embroidering, yes it's always by hand. I use a water soluble topping stabilizer / embroidery film whenever I'm embroidering on plush fabric with long fur, see picrel.
First, I place the transparent embroidery film on either a printed copy of my embroidery design or the digital image I drew on computer monitor/tablet and trace the design with a water or heat erasable pen. Then I place the embroidery film on top of the project fabric, making sure to align the drawing on the film with the fabric properly. Then I secure the fabrics together with basting stitch and start embroidering the face, first stitching along the design on the film using outline/stem stitch (backstitch for tiny parts) and then filling up the pattern with satin or long and short stitch.
Here are some links to purchase the film if you're unfamiliar with them:
https://www.amazon.com/Embroidery-Stabilizer-Soluble-Topping-Transparent/dp/B095P9LJZ8https://a.aliexpress.com/_oE48el7 No. 448333
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>>448332Using the embroidery film helps a lot, since it then feels like I'm just emnrodering on a flat furless fabric. The film can be gently torn off after I'm done embroidering. As for the uniformity of the satin stitch, stitching the design outline and then filling it helps with making all the stitches the same length. Using single strands (most cotton embroidery floss had 6 strands twisted into groups, I take out only one) a longer time. Satin stitch also looks a bit weird if the area is big, so I use long and short stitch (the eye in picrel) for those parts.The rest of it is practice~
No. 453213
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I’m obsessed with picrel. I’ve used tissue paper and printer paper as tear away stabilizers before, but I always hated the aftermath. I bought the wash away stuff and it’s such a joy in comparison. No tiny bits of paper to tear out of seams, no worries about accidental added bulk, no concerns about a papery mess in your washer.
I originally bought it to stabilize a stretch knit that would have extensive machine applique on it. Worked like a charm. I just used a scrap from that project to help me in finishing the edges of a patch I am making, also by machine satin stitch. It turned out so good compared to my tests without. It looks like I used an embroidery machine or serger for my patch’s edges it turned out so neat and tidy.
A surprise month of Hellmas is now in effect. For the rest of the month of December, VPN posting will be banned.